Monday, December 2, 2013

Three Missed Reviews. Tocca. Escada. Ruffian.

TIn the fervour of Fashion Passion... Some of the shows have slipped through the cracks and I am going back and writing some reviews of the more important shows... the next few reviews will be these missed shows and will be back on track afterwards...



Ghastly. The only phrase that covers the entirety of this Mess of a Collection! Emma Fletcher took the Ballet Theme and ran Amok with it into the Wilds of the Inexplicable!! There was so much Going on and SO MUCH WRONG Going On that this offering was nothing more than Head-Scratchingly Incomprehensible.

The reliance on Panty like Briefs was not only tasteless it was lacking in any sense of style! The themes that grew out of the "Ballet" Theme also confused... there was 90's Grunge Slip dressing swirled about with Plays on the Girlish Woman idea that Peter Copping and Marco Zanini do So well at Nina Ricci and Rochas with NONE of their Sexy Glam Ease or Beauty... here it just looked Awkward and Wan and Plagiarist!

It was Inexplicable. Fletcher made no sense with this collection. It was Downright Silly in it's Intention and Execution. There were Pieces that could be disseminated from the Body of the collection and be wearable offerings... but those were meager at best!

Not An Auspicious Outing, Chillrens... Not In The Very Least!

Thurs. 09/05/2013.


The Storied House of Escada as of late has been trying to make itself more Fashionably Viable. Trying and Succeeding are Wildly Divergent things... And on the Whole of it, Success has been achieved! The collection under Design Director Daniel Wingate is not Pushing any Boundaries but then again the Escada Customer only wants her horizons expanded gently, not with Gale Wind force. Risk taking was kept to the Bare Minimum but taking that tack also left a certain impression of Dullness and Generality in some of the clothes. Pretty... Yes, Certainly! Pulse-Quickening... Not Hardly! There was nothing here that was going to steal one's breath with it's Brilliance of Innovation or Design but the women wearing these clothes will always be sure she is Fashionable and Well Appointed!

There was definitely a Beachy, Tropical Vibe at play here and was excellently conveyed via Splashy prints and Eye-Scorching Colours... Cardinal Red, Egg Yolk Yellow, And Electric Turquoise and Marine Blues... But those were balanced by a copious amount of Black and White. In fact the Spectator Palette was the most Prevalent, from Zebra Stripes and a Branch Ribbon Pattern.

Standouts abound in this Clean Smartly Edited collection... from The Simple Upscale Sleek look of a Black Piped White Blouse with a Brief Black Skirt at Look No. 5 to the Bold, Perfectly Cut White pantsuit at Look No. 9 with the Huge Splashy Red Floral Print! A Strapless Gown at Look No. 10 featured a Tropic Oversized Floral print that Made the look New and Fresh and Exotic! Also because the Colour Pallette had that Russian Constructivist Feeling to it! Also A Mod-ish Shift dress in Black/White Overscaled Giraffe print with Blocks of Turquoise and Egg Yolk At Look No. 22 was an Immediate Winner!

All-In-All... the road ahead for Escada looks Promising and Very Chic! One cannot ask for much more, Can one, Chillrens...???

Sat. 09/07/2013.


Back in the day... early in the years of the Decade that Brian Wolk and Claude Morais have been designing the Upper Scale Label Ruffian... there was much talk of them being new powerhouses in fashion on the Brit scene and their shows became must-sees by all the Fashion Cognoscenti... well...

Things have died down a bit and the hype has Assuredly been reduced to little more than a whisper... this Spring 2014 Collection might be proof as to why! Pretty. Well... Yeah. Inspiring, Um.... No. Fashion Forward.... Not even close! In what has become a Dangerous tendency amongst the designers of now is that they are perfectly happy imbibing in what makes them happy and not so much what makes them VIABLE and in the end the collections have been damned with the faint praise of looking... "Catalogue" and this is one collection that skews Catalogue Badly! There just wasn't much here pulse quickening. When Labels like J. Crew and Banana Republic... Hell even the Damn GAP  are producing Of-The-Now Collections with instant Appeal to Not only Editors of Glossy Mags and Fashion Insiders alike... that a BIG Fashion house would show this as their offering for Spring 2014... Not gonna Cut It!

Wolk and Morais worked a Pretty vibe with a slightly Tough bent that Skewed the Uptown Vibe Ever so slightly. It was welcome because mainly the show felt relentlessly... Femme! There were Moments of High-End dressing, However that brief glimpse of the Upmarket was wished to be be seen more! Those Black Dresses with the White Buttoned Plackets and School Girl Collars had a Bit of Whimsical Chic to them (Exit No. 7 and Exit No. 10) but looked too off the rack. Some Gritty Without the Grit Motorcycle jackets spiced things up but only the way a dash of Cayenne does, Not a full on Jalepeno Spicy!

Wolk and Morais would do better to show some risk in their collections in the future. I am sure their clientele will be eager to snatch up these... Pretty... offerings come Spring, but the relevance of those offereings, Chillrens... Isn't Quite as Prescient as it needs to be!

That's All.


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