Thursday, February 25, 2016


Weds. 03/04/2015.


"Erotic Fever"

There! That got your attention! One would assume Christophe Lemaire was thinking something of the same thing when he offered this little nugget of Naughty info about the subliminal backstory of his Fall 2015 collection. Whether or not that was the case, and if one looked askew at the collection it was definitely there, simmering beneath the Refined surface, but what was more the take away was Lemaire and his partner Sarah-Linh Tran's Exactingly Perfect embodiment of that most Stylish of, and Rarefied creatures... "La Femme Francaise"

Lemaire's polished, offhanded, almost Careless ease in which he approximates what stylish French women do with their "Mode" and then reflects it back to them and seduces them with their own style is akin to Alchemy! His woman is, Yes, Sexual, but that sexuality burns and smoulders rather than flames out of control. You could sense the perverse tension of the High, Tight scarves some of the models wore, intimating perhaps a dalliance into the subversive side of sexuality with a nod towards Auto-Erotic Asphyxiation... There is much proof that ladies into such things usually wear scarves and high-neck blouses/sweaters to cover the marks... If Lemaire was actualizing some "Erotic Fever" through his styling, then that might have been a covert acknowledgement of such things!

Is this a step too far... No. French Sexuality embraces many moods and many taboos, (Marquis De Sade, Anyone) and fashion can be a very exciting tool of eroticism! Lemaire's woman is in fact quite Severe, no Flashy colours or Sequins and Gilt, she is Spare and Lean, However, that does not muffle or blanket sensuality, in fact, what is not seen can be as or more erotic than what is! So, this would clear the mental pathways to see the undercover eroticism of Exit No. 5, revealing no more than Clavicle and Neck, and Monastic in it's Navy-on-Navy sparseness. Or the Mannish allure of Tami Williams' in Exit No. 29, Superbly cut Tweed trousers in Charcoal topped by an Olive Sweater revealing a Peek of Cream shirt Collar underneath.

Now, Putting aside all that Sexification of the collection, the biggest realization is how marvellous Lemaire and Tran are at apotheosizing the Untouched and Unembellished and making them as Covetous as something worked over by many hands illuminating it with Glitter and Ornament. This is the Glorification of Restraint! And there is far better a Practitioner of that craft than Lemaire.

That's All.


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