Saturday, February 20, 2016

Salvatore Ferragamo.

Sun. 03/01/2015.

Massimilano Giornetti offered up a Dark, Graphic and essentially Underwhelming Fall 2015 show that felt Heavy, Brooding and not a little bit Joyless. The high point was the insertion of some Graphic Colour Blocking amidst the Somber tones of much of the collection (What that Sickly Green was doing in this mix was WAY Beyond Me!) which varied from gloomy Chocolates and Charcoals to the Utterly incoherent addition of Searing Red and Sunny Yellow. Maybe Giornetti was trying to lighten the mood, but all it served to do was distract in the absolutely wrong manner. 

Even the cuts of the clothes and materials skewed Maudlin and unecessarily Weighty, giving off a sense of gracelessness that didn't do much for elevating the clothes. This was not the case of every outfit, and as to the colours, when Giornetti did indulge in his graphic tendencies and throw together Yellow and White and Red and Camel and a smidgen of other colour, he hit Pay Dirt, a Sublimely Chic coat on Binx Walton near the end of the show lay testament to that fact.

This collection fell well onto the Dowdy side of the fence, Giornetti's output for Ferragamo this time around would have benefited greatly from some lightening up of the heavy, penitent capes and suffocating styling. Where was the Sexiness? The Sleekness? It just all felt so Clunky and Graceless. After the easiness and breezy luxury of Spring 2015, this was a dramatic and ungainly U-turn, and after a spate of highly covetous collections, the last few from the house and Giornetti (excluding this past Spring) have been disappointing, to be kind. It would be refreshing to see Giornetti recapture that feeling of Richesse Elegance with a Louche sensibility that he had been working 3-4 years ago and progress that idiom, for the groove he has found himself in is definitely NOT his best Look!

That's All.


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