What direction is Angela Missoni to take the house that bears her Family Surname? She surely cannot go back to the early days of feathery knits from head to toe and back. Nor, can she push too far outside the familiar idioms that the house has so carefully cultivated for decades. This poses something of a Dilemma, How is Angela to keep the label Modern, Relevant yet obeisant to it's heritage. For Fall 2015, Missoni took a look back at the New Wave Music/Fashion moment witnessed in the early 80's. and embodied with Wide Shoulders and Daring graphic combos that look like they emerged from a Nagel painting!
If this was her way of finding her path forward, it wasn't exactly the best tack to take. While this gambit yielded some awfully awesome outfits, the rest fell into a trap of being neither truly nostalgic or relatively modern. A forced feeling suffused Missoni's collection and left it more like an Acadaemic study than the achieving the kind of Pointed, Seriousness of Fashion that permeated New Wave. The New Wavers took their clothes Seriously, it was all about Statement and Being Noticed, these clothes had that intent, but underwhelmed because Missoni made everything look too One-Dimensional.
The Wide Jackets and Filmy Knits were on Point, as were the oversized Cardigan coats and the Slim Zipped Cardigan jackets that limned the body sublimely. But that's kind of where it began and ended, more Affectation than true commitment to the idea. The collection on it's own merits was good, thrown in with the New Wave idea and Missoni's mental gymnastics of where the label should be now, and for the future, these things held it back a bit. The surprising part about it is, the collection has a Cool Detachment and Irony that was the undercurrent of New Wave, Vivid Flare and Plastic Facade. However, The cool Angela Missoni was trying to Feign never really warmed up the clothes.