Saturday, February 20, 2016


Sun. 03/01/2015.

An uneven yet, strongly compelling and styled collection was put forth by Gaia Trussardi for her Namesake Family label for Fall 2015. Starting off with ideas of Minimalism and Purity that she coined "Essentialism" (Nice word, that) she dipped most of her collection in Deep, Rich, Dark Chocolate tones and added in Spruce, Grey, Bronze and Petrol and Beige tones. The tension between razor sharp sleekness and wildness and strangely... militaristic utility, created the chasm in the collection that navigated it off course.

A Pencil Slim Chocolate Leather Suit was one of those pieces that pierced right through to the heart of the matter, while one in Marble later in the show seemed Ill-fitting and Sloppy. In that same breath, the Marble colored Leather Shirt and Pants, having a vaguely uniform look to it, worked wonders and was Chic and Modern in a Sportif way. The same for a Grey Leather Shirt dress early in the proceedings. The Patchwork knits and some of the badly cut Pants, which made the models look unmercifully wide and hippy, pulled down the collection and other exits, like a Leather slip with a Knit tube of a skirt just looked downright tacky. 

There was much to love here, and much to desire, but the uneven balance of the collection kept it racing against itself and never reaching the winners circle. Keeping to the Minimal aesthetic did the collection a great amount of good. but didn't Save it! Gaia Trussardi seems to be gaining more confidence in herself and her Atelier and Skills, what is needed now is a FAR more radical editing eye and a tightening up of the reigns in the design portion of her work.

That's All.


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