Playing around with the codes of a house that has a very recognizable signature, due to the previous head of Design, can be a tricky bit of tightrope walking, indeed. Guillaume Henry in the years he was at the house of Carven, essentially revitalizing it, he crafted a well-familiar look to the clothes, one that was very much him. Now, to come in afresh to the house after Henry has moved on to somewhat more illustrious pastures (Nina Ricci, which was left vacant when Peter Copping moved to ODLR) poses something of a Daunting task... Continue in the Vein of Henry? Or, Do your own Damn Thing and in Tim Gunn Mode, "Make It Work!?"
Well, Adrian Caillaudaud and Alexis Martial decided to have a Tim Gunn Moment! Sweeping the proverbial arm across the table and letting all that Henry did in the past crash to the floor, invigorated the house with New, Sparkling and Fresh energy and in my opinion, better work than Henry was doing, of which I was never the biggest fan! Caillaudaud and Martial brought a Sleek, Strong, Sexy, Athletic vibe to Carven and gave it some Guts. The Carven Woman is still Pretty, that's a Prerequisite, but she's got more Verve in her Step and More Brass in her Spine. She's Strutting around in the most Punishingly Sleek and Sexy pants of the season, but foiling them with fluffy, pristine, girly White blouses or Chloe-esque, flowing tunic tops.
Also of note, there was an astoundingly attractive 60's wallpaper Floral moment that stunned with it's oddness, but also in how right the look was amongst the rest of the pieces. When Padded and Quilted in a wash of Blues and Greens, it was Soothing, Refreshing, Hip! When done in Purple and Orange, It was Vibrant and Fun! Easily, these pieces will be on the hips of the Carven woman for Fall and Spring! Though later in the show, When this affect was done in a Shimmery Brocade style... The fabric and the styling came off a little too close to Ghesquiere and his days at Balenciaga. Especially the Long sleeve dress and the Pantsuit. They weren't terrible, but they were less successful!
All said, this was a Terribly Self-Assured and Confident opening salvo for the new Duo installed at the house, What Henry did has been completely obliterated, all for the good, to be honest, Now, showing that they have no Obeisance to the past, Caillaudaud and Martial can recreate the image of Carven in their own way and give it a New Story to tell. From the looks of this showing, it's going to be a Compelling read!