Friday, March 25, 2016


Thurs. 03/05/2015.

When it comes to certain collections, you can pretty much envisage what's going to transpire before you even see the images or show. Alber Elbaz's collections for Lanvin have fallen into that distinction. Not that that is a condemnation of any sort, especially when the collections are as inspired and whimsical as Elbaz's collection for Lanvin have been. The problem that can arise and has arisen in Lanvin's Fall 2015 collection, is that familiarity has lent an air of stagnancy to the label. It's all well and fine to have a recognizable Signature style, however on the flip side of that coin, a definite homogeneity can settle over the clothes like a Miasma.

Fall bought a certain kind of circular homecoming to Elbaz's career as he paid more than a Subtle homage to his homeland, Morocco and in doing such, traced a line back to his first exposure to the glare of the fashion spotlight, YSL, where he was hand picked by Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge to succeed Yves when he retired. As well known, Algerian born Saint Laurent had an affinity for Morocco that was nigh unquenchable and his ashes are even spread in the Majorelle Gardens of the home he owned in that country. YSL referenced the clothing and style of the country often and with an incredibly adroit hand.

Elbaz took inspiration from his hometown of Casablanca and in some part, his time at the house of Saint Laurent. The collection was laden with Braid and Tassels and Fringe and while those accents added a sense of adornment that was quietly luxurious, the rest of the collection felt more subdued and restrained, by Lanvin standards. Plenty of Capes and Fluffy fur abounded, as did a generous Bohemian spirit that came through via Mongolian Fur and Souk inspired colours and prints. These elements added a freshness and unique appeal to the collection, beside that however, the collection was generally business as usual and that in a nutshell gently derailed the collection from the trajectory of newness that was envisioned with the Moroccan influence. 

The collection had it's most successful moments when it channeled Yves more explicitly, Such as Bolero Jacket topped pantsuit over bare breasts that had Tuxedo styling in Satin lapels and Curry coloured Side stripes on the pants was sexy as hell and Sharply Chic, also a Bohemian peasant blouse and pants in Black with White Running Stripes was an Absolute winner! Elbaz created a Fantastic collection that even though it felt reliant on past tropes, had a newness that gave it an eclectic and wild nature. Next Time, Elbaz might be better off adding some more of this spirit to his collection and focusing less on the familiar. For, even though that familiar is usually fascinating, it is beginning to grow deeply expected and as we know, Familiarity breeds, in this case, not contempt, but weariness. 

That's All.


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