Wednesday, March 23, 2016

Rick Owens.

Thurs. 03/05/2015.

Unapologetically Avant-Garde, Rick Owens can be a rather difficult pill to swallow if you don't fully embrace or understand his Oeuvre. Within that Abstracted, Avant shell, there also lies the heart of a Romantic, one that expresses itself not in Saccharine sentimentality and schmaltz, but in a Quiet, Considered way that comes through loud and clear to those who are attuned to Owens' wavelength. Owens after all, IS a California guy, and like any California native in this business, there is going to be some influence Glamour, of either the Hollywood/Beverly Hills kind or the more Rock inflected aesthetic of L.A. Seemingly, Owens distills both of those hemispheres into a singularly unique composite!

In view of this analysis, one would have to admit there was a certain, Opulence to Owens' Fall 2015 offering, Gold and other Metallic Leaf caked on faces, A more Sensual approach to the clothes that didn't deform or transform the bodies of the models and even some Beading and Embroidery, however the collection felt flatter and less visceral than usual. One of the achingly heartrending parts of the Owens aesthetic is that if you are among the lucky few that GETS IT... You are emotionally riveted to what he sends down the runway... There is an intellectual investment in what transpires, even if it is difficult to wrap your brain around, you usually are more than willing to drink the Kool-Aid and succumb to the giddiness of the experimental nature of the thing. 

As with last season, that Strident sense of Fuck It seemed to be lacking if not altogether missing. The clothes felt beleaguered and to some degree, Pointless. in trying to go for something Organic, Slinky, even, the attitude and poignancy got lost. Often, the garments simply looked fussy and gimmicky. Usually the Narrative informs the clothes, this go-round, one was left hopelessly looking for meaning, and it didn't feel as if Owens was offering one either. That didn't stop the collection from having exquisite pieces, however, it also didn't elevate it above being nothing more than lackluster. 

That's All.


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