While Sarah Burton's Fall 2015 Alexander McQueen collection definitely had it's moments, but on the whole, felt disappointing and underwhelming. It focused on a Melancholic, almost Victorian, Haunting, disheveled beauty that was centered around the idea of Roses, (Very English, indeed!) as Burton said, that there is beauty in all the stages of a Rose, found her inspirational germ for the collection in photos by David Sims of Roses, and, like the petals on a aging rose, her woman "unravels" and her clothes began "Peeling away"
Nuanced, Yes! But did it work? Not really. The opening coats, were, Lovely. The Lace "Skeleton" gowns in Black and Red near the end, Inventive. The dress on Stella Lucia with the 3-D Roses blooming in the folds of it's skirt, Breathtaking. A pair of Pink outfits with Applique Embroideries and Cape Back Sleeves were STUNNING! And then... Meh! It felt like it had been done, and done better BY Burton. The collection just felt Forced a little too Fussy. One can never say McQueen can be OVERDESIGNED, McQueen is one of the last Bastions of the Excess, but here, Burton seemed to be too prissy with the details and it made for a collection that felt a little too studied for it's own good. A little more Roughing up around the edges would have been acutely helpful!
Where Burton is beginning to shed the spectre of Lee Alex and leave the indebted nature of continuing his name behind her, She is becoming freer in her expression and finding the Parallels to Lee's work and her own instead of trying to imagine what Alex would have done if he were still among us. She's a different designer than he was, and it's thoroughly gratifying, even when it isn't the greatest success, to see Burton emerge into her own Spotlight and leave Alexander's to continue to shine on him and his legacy. This is Burton's McQueen now, and the more Sarah embraces that, the more Amazing her work will continually become!