Sunday, June 5, 2016


Mon. 03/09/2015.

As far as debuts at a fashion house are concerned, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski's at Hermes for Fall 2015,  in the wake of the Brilliant Christophe Lemaire's departure, was about as close to a Smash Hit as one could ever possibly hope for. Being that Hermes is primarily a Super Deluxe Leather house with a Horsey Equestrian background, Vanhee-Cybulski caught all those details and whipped them into refined, restrained and quietly elegant sportif pieces with a Hyper Luxurious hand.

An elegant quietude pervaded throughout the collection and only served to make the Richesse of the outfits come through with an even more pronounced voice than had Vanhee-Cybulski indulged in a more overt sense of Decadence. Nothing here even barely approached a volume above polite and courteous, but quaked inside with an ebullient air of Untouchable class and of the rarefied! The palette helped evoke all these things as well with colours that sidled more on the side of contained rather than Extrovert, although a shade of Maroon red was prevalent, as was a Joyous Yolk Yellow outfit that sauntered out, otherwise, Vanhee-Cybulski kept it neutral and monotone with mostly Black and shades of White.

Some examples of the best the show had to offer, A Black Mink belted waist jacket with Pleat-front Suede trousers on Ajak Deng was Subtle to a fault, but in it's indulgent fabrics was also peerless in Extrovert luxuriousness. A sublime Riding-style "Equestrienne" Cardigan in a Inky Midnight Blue on Leila Nda, paired with a matching skirt was so Ethereally breathtaking as to cause one to swoon ceaselessly! Vanhee-Cybulski so flatly hit this collection to the Nosebleed seats, it didn't even bear contemplation. She succeeded a man who had made an identity for this house after he came in behind the idiomatic and singular Jean-Paul Gaultier, and made it into a Blockbuster, and then handed the reins over to Ms. Cybulski. Her task, was to take all that had come before, Margiela, Gaultier, Lemaire... and synthesize something from those archetypal personas and make something recognizable yet entirely her own and new. All one can say if asked if she did is, Hell Yeah! In Spades! 

That's All.


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