Monday, June 27, 2016

Moncler Gamme Rouge.

Weds. 03/11/2015.

Equestrian. That was was the single abiding motif in Giambattista Valli's Fall 2015 Moncler Gamme Rouge Opus Magnum. It made for an interesting, though stagnantly single-minded collection that while filled with every possible version and vision of the Redingote, excepting any that reached below the knee, that is. While Valli spun a Scheherazade-like multitude of variations on the Riding coat, it grew boring and insipid REAL FAST! Now, that's a hard task to achieve when each was so well considered and thoughtfully produced, but with such unwavering focus on the one idea and hemline, the diversity felt like anything but. 

Many standouts were available to comment upon, a simple Red coat with an Embroidered Gold rope belt and key around the waist, another little number on Aamito Lagum in Loden Green with an asymmetric zip, and a particularly lovely and regal Red version with lavish Tone-on-Tone Rococo Embroidery! A Diagonal plaid Mohair coat with a Fox and Sheepskin collar on Ysaunny Brito near the end in murky shades of Black, Green and Grey was another Stupendous example. But, when one took it all in, there was little else to entertain the mind or the eye, just a procession of brief coats with an Equestrienne influence and not much else going for them. Yes, Valli's skills are legion, but they weren't put to their greatest use here. Next time around, Valli would avail himself to think a little less linearly. 

That's All.


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