Christian Dior Resort 2016.
Oh, Raf Simons... You simply cannot leave well enough alone, can you? You have this compulsion to Over-Analyze and Deconstruct the ideas of Dior into some Intellectual and Psychologically pretentious opus, where the clothes are more ideas than actual garments meant to flatter. As with Vuitton before this and Chanel before that, Resort 2016 was about Location, Location, Location! Dongdaemun Plaza for Lagerfeld in Seoul, Bob Hope's Caldera of a John Lautner designed house in the hills of Palm Springs in California for Nicholas and now, Les Palais Bulles on the Cote d'Azur and owned by one of the oldest of the Old Guard, Pierre Cardin for Simons and Dior.
First off, Much will be (and has been) Written about the location and the tendency this season for the Big Names of French Fashion to show in Exotic locales to give a little more breadth to their collections, and Being that this is most fashion writers Wet Dream Pin-Up Boy, Raf Simons, you know lots of words are going to be spilled over every infinitesimal little speck of this show... (You know who you are, Tim Blanks! Sarah Mower!) But to get right down to it...
It was Terrible.
I don't need to go on about it, I have no need to lambaste or harangue. The clothes were disappointment enough to cover all that healthily! The collection just felt, aimless and meandering and as if it had nothing to say other than, it was Ugly. And that's about the size of it. Take from it what you will. Some pieces managed to burble up from the ooze and give a Frisson... A Trio of gowns near the end were Dynamite, as was Lineisy Montero's Pink and Plaid Bar coat that was fanning many flames of wanton desire! After that, Simons' Fiddled and Tinkered and folded and Abutted and over-designed himself into a quicksand trap of just flat out Shitty looking pieces! I can't be any blunter, the clothes were busted!
I have expended enough words, mayhaps too many to describe such a discouraging showing. Simons has it in him to do great things at the house, but the more he fights against designing from his Heart and Gut and keeps going to the Intellectual, He'll never manage to be Great! He will be more simply, A Footnote.