Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Alexander McQueen.

Tues. 10/01/2013.

Catching the Zeitgeist of a Season is inevitable. Many moods get flung about with abandon season to season, some stick like flypaper to everyone showing a collection during the madness, (All White. Sportif. both have been touchstones this season) One such occurrence for Spring 2014 is a Warrioress/Tribal Insurgence amongst the many other voices clamouring for attention. At Alexander McQueen, If not Whole Hog Tribal, The Warrior Woman Vein was being tapped for all it's worth! 

Opening the show with a recontextualization of Russian Consturctivism blended with a Tribal Flair in the Stark yet Bold Colour combinations of Red, White and Black that Sarah Burton chose to open the show with, Combine that with the Folkloric/Tribal Patterns, The Warrioress Helmets, Those SHOES! This was no shrinking Hothouse Flower being channeled This day! Burton also proved that she is also as much a fan of the Fetishistic side of sex that Lee was with her Harnesses and Belts and Buckles. For some reason, even with their sexual connotations, those elements came off as Accoutrement of the Fight, worn with a Victors Pride and Glory!

The Feathery Structured Plisse Pleats in the skirt of Exit No. 7 were a thing of technical Magnificence and paired with the short zippered jacket the outfit was Masterful! The following pieces in a Black and White Tile Print were also Especially appreciable, A coat at Exit No. 9 on Fei Fei Sun and A Two-Piece outfit at Exit No. 11 on Cindy Bruna were Standouts for all the right reasons!

There was such a sense of Burton Letting go of the Nostalgia of Lee and moving into something more Prescient and Self Descriptive, as if she has finally realized that she needn't bask in the light of her mentor and friend's Glory and move out of his ENORMOUS Shadow and create her own light. That was no more apparent than in the Soigne use of Feathers in the final stages of the show. Yes, Alexander used Feathers before and used the Fiercely, But there was something Savagely Elegant and Devoid of Poetry in Burton's hands, something More Visceral. They had no attachment to Romance or Fantasy, As in Lee's Hands, Here they had the Primal Feel of The Hunt!

In the end, Burton has established a Vocabulary using the dialect that was left to her by Lee Alex, But she has become ever more confident, season upon season, to adapt the dialect to her own specific Patois and the resulting Language has given us new ways of describing the McQueen Legacy and propel it towards the Future. What Alexander would have done had he stayed around to continue to Improvise on his own history, One can never know, It remains a mystery. One thing that is not a Mystery, however, is that Burton is certainly capable of pulling a Lagerfeld and with time, etching her signature over Lee's and Recalibrating the house codes to her wavelength and if not erasing what was essential McQueen, but Defining what McQueen Is, Will Be and CAN Be in the future.

That's All.


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