Friday, May 9, 2014

John Galliano.

Sun. 09/29/2013.

It has been truly a Sad state of affairs that John Galliano has been absent from the Fashion scene for so long. Dior, for one, would be truly Different, better, if Galliano was still at it's helm, the whole fashion landscape would be different. His own house would be different... But that is now for History books and the analysts. In the here and now, Bill Gaytten, Galliano's Right hand for many, Many moons, has been manning the Vessel that is the John Galliano Label for the last few years since John's Deposing.It's funny to note as well that Gaytten was just beginning to hit his stride at Dior when Raf was installed and completely Devastated the House. If things had only been different....

But they are not! So we deal with what is and not what we would like them to be! In that sense, one could so palpably feel a Sea Change coming on here Chez Galliano, That the memory of what was exclusively the Territory of JOHN GALLIANO and now what is the HOUSE Of Galliano with a Designer whom is not the name on the label. Bill Gaytten has finally it seems let go of the deference to the old house codes and feels now, finally, that his old friend and Boss, is not coming back. He's isn't keeping a seat warm, he's the man in charge. Within realizing that, the time is Nigh that Gaytten gets to showing us what BILL GAYTTEN Can do! What Bill Gaytten Likes to design. Finally, the torch has been put out. 

So.... Where does that leave the Label? Solidly on it's own Two Feet, and Looking like a New Animal Indeed. Like any good designer installed at a house that does not bear their own name, Gaytten has a very big playground of inimitable design history to draw from and keep alive in re-imagined form. Incorporating What was the house DNA and Your OWN DNA together and making a working whole out of the Splicing. Gaytten has, it seems, worked out the kinks and is traversing the path towards making the label his own! 

Now, Down to Brass tacks! The Clothes. There was a definite Sport feeling going on Chez Galliano. There was an emphasis on Speed, Efficiency, Modernity and with all the incredible technique in the clothes, there was also something Covertly elaborate and Couture to these clothes. The Couture technique was hidden behind a scrim of Sporty Athleticism, but upon closer inspection, the Hand of a Couturier was firmly grasping the reins. 

The Orange pantsuit that opened the collection was as chic as it was mobile, having a Track Suit swagger with a Board room spirit. The Next Exit with it's Paper flower like cutouts which was a trope seen throughout and worked without being frilly or girly. A dress in Sunny Yellow at Exit No. 10 looked like it was cut out of a fabric Bubble Wrap but had the allure of a Skating Dress for a Grown-Up. One Quick aside, The colour palette here was the true spark that ignited the collection, Mandarin Orange, Sun Yellow, Pale Mint, Pale Sea Blue, And a Technicolour Variety of Pinks and Purples intermixed with Lots of Black and White. They worked together to give Progressive feel to the clothes while still having at times that Delicate Galliano Fragility!

Exit No. 28 was a Standout for it's simplistic look was betrayed by it's Highly technical construction and was an easy winner of the whole show! The Finale gowns were of true Galliano vintage But also had more impact and gravitas than anything John would have created.

When all was said and done, Gaytten broke free from the tethers that perhaps had held him grounded and has begun to soar aloft freely and unfettered by the past of Galliano. The headmaster of the house is not coming back, it's up to Bill now to define what the House of John Galliano looks like NOW, not with a Backward glancing approach but looking forward and blending the Old and the New. He seems to have hit upon the formula. Refining it is all that is needed!

That's All.


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