In the beginning... I was part of the Pheobe Philo/Celine Fan Club. For a season or two. Then, as with Ghesquiere, She was being made out to be some Messiah of Modern Sportswear while producing some of the most Head Scratchingly Obstuse and Unappealing Fashion! The more extreme she went to make women look Garish the more it was Lauded and Acclaimed. All this while being one of the BIGGEST perpetrators of the White-Only Model Cast.
I wasn't going to be swayed easily or convincingly to the Philo side unless she had produced something Stupendous and broadened her view of what beauty is. Spring 2014 while not exactly Stupendous was Sufficiently Great enough (In Places, not as a whole) to Re-evaluate. The Collection was wholly Successful with some blips of WTF along the way, but, for the most part, It was rather Sensational! Philo Injected Tribal Elements, Shocking Primary Colour arrangements, Graffiti, Brassai, and a Certain Flavour D'Afrique into the mix and let it all hang together in intriguing ways.
Punctuating Philo's opening clothes in Vivid Stephen Sprouse like Colour combinations lent something of a Swaggering air to the proceedings, These were Tough Girls. Even if they Wafted, they were still ready to Rock and Roll if the need arose! Layering came through Loud and Clear as a point of interest for Philo and sometimes she piled it on and never lost the immediacy of Speed and Lightness and Ease. It was rather Fascinating to see.
Dissecting the whole collection would be a fool's errand. Philo masterfully mashed up so much with such an effortless hand that picking it apart would perhaps take weeks! Therein lay the beauty of it all... With SO MUCH going on, That it actually appeared whisked together as if on Fairy Dust and Whispering Winds and that it translated so easily was the mark of Philo's Genius with This collection. One has to compare the collection to Miuccia Prada's Collection this season for they are spiritual twins. This collection truly had that Lightning Quick spark of resonance that is Stock and Trade for Ms. Miuccia. It LOOKED Like a Prada Collection. And that did it a world of good!
Specifics... A Violently hued Yellow coat at Exit No. 7 with Sapphire applications that looked like Embroidery or Fabric Manipulation, either way, it was Perfect. Exit No. 30 was of Especial Interest, A Long Buttonless Black "Jacket" with grommets punched into the bottom that were either in splashy brights or shiny metals and worn over sublime Buff leather pants.
Yes, There was a TON going on here. Not all of it was exceptional, but most was! Philo showed immense talent in presenting such a wild and audacious collection. Not every woman can wear this type or style of clothing confidently, Nor should they try, but for those Warrior Women out there that can, They'll have much to give Thanks for!