Tuesday, May 13, 2014

Emanuel Ungaro.

Mon. 09/30/2013.

Ah... The beleaguered house of Ungaro. Poor Thing. She hasn't been the same since now stars of the fashion Universe Giambattista Valli and Peter Dundas (Of Pucci, Now) were there. But realistically... The house has suffered indignity after indignity for many years now, and that really started because of Ferragamo's Ousting of the man who bears the same name as the house. Ungaro was a designer of whom Fashion Wonderment flowed out of his fingers into fabric and cut and pleat and fold. He was a Singular Designer and a Deep, Impassioned, Tormented Romantic who loved all things WOMAN from the core of his soul. That same passion has been missing at this house and lo, has it suffered for it.

That is though, living in the past, although now with the fashion firmament as it, Ungaro would be an Ideal choice to come back and revive his own house and perhaps even relaunch his One-Of-A-Kind Couture... Alas, I digress. Back to the NOW. Fausto Puglisi is a young Upstart of a Designer with a Rock and Roll sensibility and likes to dress Young, Sexy, Wild things, Maybe this is the new identity the house of Ungaro needs to not seem like the Fusty old Couture house of yesteryear, But if this Spring 2014 collection is the route that Puglisi is going to take, The house may still be in very dangerous waters!

The collection... Let's be wholly honest here... Looked Tacky and Cheap! There was no sophistication here and no sense of fun! It felt belaboured and smothered by it's own weight of indifference, As if Puglisi really had not thought about how these clothes would look and just threw things together Willy-Nilly. Those scrolls of Pin Pleats that decorated arms and hems and sides of garments were more than distracting and not altogether attractive. The add Stripes, Dots, Sheer, Military Patch Pockets, Tiers of pleats and MORE and it still added up to insubstantial! More dreadful, It was Heavy Handed. Subtlety was thrown clear out the window and left a far distant memory. 

A simple White Tee with a Black neckline worn with a Teensy Pencil skirt lavished with Embroidery at Exit No. 9 was a Winner for the fact alone that it was Chic and not Gaudily overdone. Exit No. 18 was also giving Stylish Cool in a Gold mesh top with Giant Black Leather patch pockets worn with a Black and Gold Leather striped skirt punctuated with punctures! 

Aside from a couple other pieces that did not scream trashy in a Kardashian kind of way, Puglisi's effort was a failure. The only upside is that it is going to generate enough buzz and attention to keep him at the helm for another season and hopefully in his sophomore effort he can work out the kinks and produce something more worthy of his actual Major Talent. But, if it's another Horrorshow like this, Send in the next man! 

That's All.


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