Thursday, December 22, 2016

Atelier Versace Fall/Winter 2015-2016.

Sun. 07/05/2015.

Donatella goes Music Festival? Pardon Moi? Well, get ready for Haute Couture Festival girls in the mould of Glastonberry and Coachella at the house that Sex built! Donatella Versace's Fall/Winter 2015 Atelier showing was inspired by equal measures of Stevie Nicks and Lollapalooza. Flower girls who are more daring than your usual festival goer, revealing more skin than might be seen as decorous for such an occasion, especially when that skin is encased in exposed skin tight, body shaping corsets in which diaphanous raw-edge Chiffons, Devoré Velvets and figured Lace are spun about in gossamer and fairy-tale like configurations. 

For Versace, Donatella especially, this is brazenly new territory, Donatella is not given much to limpid, dreamy, ethereality and this presentation saw her break with her usual Power Woman aesthetic and indulge in something much more romantic, all the while cloaked in the phenomenal technical wizardry of her couture ateliers. Those ateliers whipped up some truly dazzlingly masterful concoctions that defied imagination. Spinning webs and floating panels of fabric onto corsets that had become the centerpiece of the gown, not the accomplice, bisecting fraying edged materials with beading and lace and crafting them into elaborate confections. The best possible moment was when Hanae Gaby strode upon the stage in a flotilla of shredded petals of pleated Aqua Blue Organza that were worked to resemble huge Ostrich feather plumes amassed into a Magnificent Ballgown. It was a Breathtaking piece de mode to be sure!

The only thing that grated on ones nerves, there was no releif from all this floating, liquid-y finery. No day wear to speak of, nothing to cut the gauzy, hippy-dippy grungy Haight-Ashbury meets 90's Seattle and add a much needed counterpoint. To the end, the collection felt more than a small amount redundant. But with such beauty on display, and such beautiful technique, Donatella could be forgiven for getting a little carried away with herself!

That's All.


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