Consistency can sometimes be considered Damning with Faint Praise in the fashion echelons. It can be used, somewhat pejoratively, to say that a designer, while creating fabulously beautiful work, that they may be a little staid and let's face facts... It's used to mean a designer is Boring! Simple as that! Martin Grant is one such designer, and that's the Humongous shame of the industry that this Master of the art of Fashion is considered just that... CONSISTENT! He IS consistent. Consistently Amazing.
Yes, his clothes don't shout, "This Is A Martin Grant Outfit!" One, His clientele are already well-versed enough in the magic of his clothes to know another acolyte when they see one, so they needn't any reason to shout, and... Two, his large customer base don't want their clothes to offer that kind of klaxon blaring to the loudest possible decibel! They prefer the quiet, innate chic that comes with wearing Martin Grant, and Grant, is eager to oblige, for he isn't given much to hollering himself.
Grant reminds one of, in some small, minute way, the great Cristobal (Last name NOT needed!) He works his magic, perfecting his ideas and readjusting them to each new season while never losing the inherent principles that his design is based on,,, Kinda like Yves (Again... LAST NAME NOT NEEDED!) but without all the tortured neurosis! For that reason alone, His clothes have been swabbed with the brush of.., Classic. Which is all well and good, but Grant has the technical facilities to compete with Couture, (and imagine if he were given the reins to a couture house how AMAZING that would be!) and "Classic" seems to my point of view, come off as much of a Backhanded compliment,
But all that is academic really. One should focus on the clothes, No? Grant's 2016 Resort collection is one of great fun and chicness! Using a strict palette of Black, Blue and White with touches of Camel, Grant crafted a soignè collection full of Sophistication and Slickly Stylish pieces that would cause the master YSL himself to perhaps weep (although that man did cry at the drop of a dime, so maybe not the best comparison!) Anyways... Grant kept things mercifully unfussy and clean, until the last Four looks, there wasn't one whit of embellishment to be found! It was refreshing to see such austerity presented with so much Verve and Joy! His collection positively sparked with ebullience!
There's no need to fastidiously earmark each and every piece, they all brimmed with excellence. but a few did make the heart flutter a bit more than others... A Champagne White Satin tie-neck blouse with Black French Cuffs and high-waisted wide Black Trousers envisaged the best days of Yves done in a modern mode, while a Black Swing coat with Blue stripes had the same envisaging, yet this time of Balenciaga. And Grant's riff on "Le Smoking" Two Words...
Come to think of it... those words kinda encapsulate the whole collection quite succinctly!