Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Elie Saab Haute Couture.

Weds. 01/23/2014.

Elie Saab is now a Standard Bearer for the tendency towards All Out Evening collections that have begun to dominate Couture. He is perhaps one of the finest practitioners of this craft, but this is also not exactly a thing worthy of celebration. I have said it before and I can and will say it again... Couture or High Fashion cannot be a Laboratory for confections alone. As Giddy-Making as those confections may be and also profitable, ultimately, they devalue the great skills that a Couture house has at it's command. Even more so in Ready-To-Wear, A designer cannot expect to be taken seriously doing Cocktail and Evening alone. If they believe they can, they are deluded! 

Saab is one of those designers who has hitched his wagon to the Star of showstoppers and has not looked back, and it has hindered him really from being seen as anything more than that guy that made Halle Berry's Gown when she won her Oscar and for producing prodigious evening wear. In his Ready-To-Wear, he has begun to include some beautiful Deluxe Daywear, Much to the betterment of his shows and work, but he needs to inject that same view into his Haute Couture, because as STUNNING as this collection was, and God above it was, STUNNING, It was also just another rather boring exercise in Evening, One we have seen far too many times before. 

Spring 2014 produced a bumper crop of Beauties from Saab, From the opening section of Shell Pink Stunners, which started things off with a gobsmacking bang! A Pannier sided Embroidered Ballgown On Maud Welzen at Exit No 5 was of Atypical Magnificence. From there we got the Absolutely Infuriatingly redundant Grouping of gowns by Colour following the opening section, First White, then Fruit Punch Red, and then a Bronze/Lichen Yellow, Blues ranging from Cornflower to Delphinium, and so on to the end, and that makes his collections an UTTER BORE! As if he designs in one colour until that colour is exhausted and then, POOF onto the next colour! It at the least makes his collections feel acadaemic. It's a habit he should really stop immediately.

An Antebellum Ballgown on Maria Borges at Exit No. 37 in Ombre Black to White with multicolour flowers embroidered in between neck to hem was a Qualified Jaw Dropper! Saab finished in Black and produced a Gigantic Meringue of a Wedding Gown that was Gasp Inducing in it's Extremeness and Exacting Beauty! In Conclusion, Saab produced a Barn Burner of a Beauty. It was a collection for the ages in terms of Beauty and Glorious Execution as well as Breathtaking Desirability! Still, Not Perfection, if Saab could have included some Deluxe Day outfits, this would have been arguably one of the best of the season, as it is, it's a Winner, But not the BIG Winner!

That's All.


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