Friday, June 27, 2014

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture.

Tues. 01/22/2014.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture.

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are in desperate need of Austin Powers to help them get their Mojo Back. In recent seasons, it seems as if they have, in an attempt to broaden their appeal, lost all sense of what was essential and unique to them and have become, boringly commercial. No one can blame them for trying to modify their Arch, Highbrow Arty sensibilities into a business that can make money, although they do have all that money pouring in from their Perfume, "Flowerbomb" to stem that tide somewhat and now that they have something of a hit with their Male Counterpart "Spicebomb" Maybe they should focus on getting back to the Subversive ground zero they started from.

Sadly, Their Spring 2014 Haute Couture show was not showing that they were pointing (Pun intended) the right direction. It was, for WHAT It was, an interesting and offbeat showing. Dancers from the Dutch National Ballet, with Hair that was Equal Parts Grace Coddington/Myrtle Snow (American Horror Story: Season 3) and Flower Child and the Dancer/Models flitting all about "En Pointe" in their Ballet shoes... it was surely not the Kind of show Karl Lagerfeld would put on, But effective for the message Viktor and Rolf were trying to get across.

Horsting and Snoeren showed full Bodysuits with Latex pieces attached that looked like Tops and Skirts and Dresses, one even, In Deep Mauve at Exit No. 13 was INGENIOUSLY made to look like a Blazer that had a self sash wrap waist with Gathers... Masterful! Otherwise, there were Ribbons and Bows and little Birds embroidered on the dress that looked like tattoos or at times, like they were draping and gathering the Latex or being held aloft, Disney Cartoon Style, by the Birdies Beaks and were staying there by Fairy Godmother magic!

With only 21 Exits, there wasn't much meat to this recipe, but it handled it's business in a Esoteric and Quixotic way! It wasn't the work we expect from the designers of their heyday, Perhaps it was a transition. Perhaps the pair have grown up and don't need all the Intellectual trickery of Ye Good Olde Days... Or maybe they are more canny than we think for the end of the show was quite telling... as the models/dancers made their passes across the stage and got into final formation for the appearance of the designers... the set went dark, and when the lights came back up the backdrop held a huge picture of the new Advert for their latest Perfume, Bonbon.

Maybe, Snoeren and Horsting know when to Hold back the tricks and do a good Marketing Job and when to flash forward and give the people something to talk about, Let's hope that Bonnie Raitt Moment is next on the playlist!

That's All.


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