There has been this Savage Streak running through quite a few collections so far this Fall 2014 season, Especially when it comes to the Treatment of Fur. Like the Pelts were Skinned and dyed and Manipulated by Neaderthalian Man! It's Fascinating and shows no signs of abating. I just never thought I'd see Gilles Mendel going that route. Funnily, It worked. It injected some Serious Toughness into his collection and made Mendel Strip back some of the more Sweeter elements to his work. The Plaid Patchwork Fur coat that opened had a Russian Constructivist flavour to it, but it was the Blood Red Sable hooded Bolero that was singing the loudest! Playing with Red, Black and Neutral to open with gave a Boldness to the Proceedings, but one couldn't help but feel that this collection lacked that essential something Special... It felt a little Ham-Handed and Excessive.
Mendel Piled on the Fur and Leather in Patchwork and Colour Blocking and Inserts and by the halfway mark, the Tedium had begun to set in. Mendel just didn't seem to know when to Quit whilst he was ahead and continued adding on, until a lot of the pieces just suffered under their own overdone Largesse! Yes, A Lot of it was Technical Wizardry at it's finest, but if it wasn't in use of making Great work, what use is it? It seems to be something I am reiterating over and over, but sometimes, Keeping it simple is the best move to make. Witness the layered Bicolour Knitted Fox Hooded cropped Capelet over another matching longer Capelet worn with a simple White Blouse and Black Pants at Exit No. 18! How Awesome is that!?
Exit No. 30 also gave credence to the Dictum, "Less is More" in a Practically Monastic for this collection Fir Green Leather Sheath dress. After this, things went back into overdrive and the Evening pieces, although some of the finale gowns were exciting in their own way, they mostly were just tortured with draping and pleating and ruching and asymmetry and looked Stupendously Overworked! They had no appeal other than to be testaments to Technique. Which is how most of this collection felt!
Mendel had some ideas here that are going to get women noticed and are some of the most Mind Blowing Exercises in Abstruse Technique and Inconceivable Luxury, But when those elements are over indulged the whole framework of the Glorious Craftsmanship is Smothered. This was a case of Too Much of a Good Thing, Truly Being Too Much!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
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