Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Burberry Prorsum.

Mon. 02/17/2014.











It would be Easy to become Fascinated By Christopher Bailey's continued "Bloomsbury" Inspire that has had a habit of popping up often in his collections. To be in a Thrall over how that for Fall 2014, that Stimulus was perhaps it's most Blatant and Obvious instead of Subtle. How one could really feel the Bohemian Lifestyle and especially, the Artists of the Group, being manifested in this collection as the works of Roger Fry, and Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant seemed to imbue the clothes of this collection in a Pastiche kind of way, Mixing some of one artist here and one artist there in the same garment without translating any one specific work of any of these artists literally into cloth and thusly, into a Garment.

That would be the Easy thing. The Obvious. The road less taken would be to find Bailey in a very Comfortable Niche that he is finally feeling free enough to Celebrate outright without Sublimation his more artistic indulgences knowing full well that they will meet the demands of Commerce too! . That meant that there was an air, Quite Noticeably of, "Screw It" to the Show! Bailey seems to be saying, "I'm Doing It My WAY!" And the collection felt a lot more uninhibited than usual. Bailey has always been on a mission to Reinvent "The" Trench and "The" Check that are so Iconic of The House Of Burberry! That came down today as to show barely recognizable versions of the Former and Absolutely NONE of the Latter! In the Checks place were Gay, Bucolic, Naif Scribbles and Prints that looked like they were haphazardly splashed on Suede and Leather or Painterly Canvas, where Bailey's Artistic Proclivities were best displayed!

The Hippy-ish, Bohemian vibe also meant there were Filmy dresses and Scarves Everywhere. This lent a sort of Nonconformity to the Venerable label that blew Strong breezes of Fresh Air into the house. Granny Dresses had no Granny influences to them at all and were Devilishly Sexy. Mix-And-Match was the message to be found with these dresses as the show burrowed to it's core, Topcoats, Trenches, Scarves, Bomber Jackets, Shealings... all strewn atop these filmy Nightgown/Lingere Dresses to Captivating Effect!

The Hand-Painted Suedes and Canvas coats were the most Phenomenal of the bunch for they directly reflected the Artistic temperament of the Artists being referenced, Bailey did his own Bloomsbury art and much of it was worthy of being in the Tate or the V&A! Exit No. 2 on Edie Campbell was Radiant, as was the One on Malaika Firth Exit No. 4 which had a Bit more Naive freshness about it. Kai Newman was giving off Hot-Blooded Sexuality in the leggy Floral print dress at Exit No. 14!

Bailey's Burberry Show Did a Fine and Delicate Balancing Act of Teetering on the line between Vampy Sexual Brazenness and Gentle Feminine Provocation. Living Neither fully in one world, It created a Trembling Tension that was Mighty. Bailey is no Amateur and one could see how in the Wrong, Less Steely Controlled Hands, This could have been a mess of Operatic Proportions, but because Bailey knows this House so well and now, Himself, one might say, It was a Smorgasbord! This feels like it's the first step of a Man newly free of his Shackles, Seeing the Display of Accolades that this collection has garnered can only Embolden Christopher Bailey further, and the work that may emerge from that Freedom, is what is the TRULY Exciting Aspect that this collection Illuminated!










That's All.










Bye4Now!

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