Oh, Yes! Yes, Ms. Jessica Lange... "Happy Days Are Here Again"
That was the refrain that opened up Marc Jacobs' Singular Unique and Fabulous Fall 2014 show! It was looped and played through the whole show. Was Jacobs' Subliminally trying to tell us something? Now that he was free from the Mantle of Louis Vuitton, he could be happy again? Was that why his Spring show was a Desolate, Apocalyptic space with Darkly Gothic Anti-Heroines populating it's scene? Makes One Wonder, Don't It?
As he is always turning his view 180 every new season, Jacobs emerged from the Dark of Spring into the Light of Fall. The two collections could not be more Radically Opposite if they wanted to be! Where as everything Spring was Heavy, and Lavish, and Decadent in a Moody kind of way, Fall is Ethereal, Light, Fresh, Buoyant almost. Engagingly free from all that Monumental detail and Adornment. This was like a Pastel Wave, washing Seductively over a Woman. Also, where the Set for Spring was Depressingly Lifeless and Overrun, like a child had turned over his Toybox and Awkward to wend, Here there was nothing but Clouds hanging Amorphously about the space and the Runway was Blissfully easy to Navigate!
This lent a Aura of Positivity to the clothes Jacobs sent streaming down the runway, Neutral Pastels and Dusky Dark colours populated the Runway and everything had a Cat-Like Sleekness to it that was in direct opposition to last Season. Opening with side slit Jersey Tunic dresses over matching leggings, all sliced with insets of different shades, it felt as if Jacobs was Channeling Mod, but as the show carried on, a 70's Halston mood was being posited too! Jacobs was just, as he always does, Mixing and Mashing up things to wholly new effect!
There was a Strictness and Purity to these clothes that made them edge into the Severe had they not Glowed with an Inner Radiance of Joy, and as the show got deeper into it's groove, that Joy became somehow, Unsettling, especially as Lange droned on overhead in the Soundtrack. Something about the Uniformity of the looks of the models and the Preternatural Calm of everything began to Border on the "Stepford Wives" Even "Children of the Corn/Damned" Was this Intentionally? Shit Yes! Marc is nothing if not a World Class Provocateur!
Jacobs' Woman proved that she was as Snow Bunny worthy as she was Discotheque with Fur Laden Bombers and Slope ready Tunics. Then the Long Knits and Knit "Sweat" Pants with High Slit Skirts over them gave off more "The Ice Storm" Sigourney Weaver than Twiggy. Especially Paired with Gigantic Puffball Fur Bombers Ombre dyed in Aurora shades. This led into Evening Proper with Swirling printed pieces Emblazoned in Crystal Studs all over giving More than one allusion to the Lavish Days of Pucci. This segwayed into ripple print pieces that were in the most Tender melting shades, that then began to Metamorphose into 3-D versions of the Ripples via Organza Ruffles. The ruffles looked as if they began to Devour the clothes until nothing was left but Exquisitely Undulating Tiers and Scrolls of Ruffles. It was Scary, in a way, but So Sublime!
Jacobs layers so many lines of Subtext and implants so many Subliminal messages into his collections that they take Serious Dissection to get at all Jacobs has to say, and with Marc's mind being so Febrile and Agile, You just may never get to the center of that Labyrinth. It is simply best to sit back and let your instinct Guide you along the way, For Jacobs' shows can be like a Sensory Immersion and one simply needs to go with the flow. This time it was really Easy, Ms. Lange said it all for us....
Happy Days Are Here Again.
You Know, I think She is On to Something!
That's All.
Bye4Now!
No comments:
Post a Comment