Anthony Vaccarello has made suggestive skin baring an art of the likes that have not been seen since Gianni Versace, Azzedine Alaia and Giorgio Di Sant'Angelo... Although with Vaccarello there is something a little more Raw and Steamy than the aforementioned designers (though it does take some skill to be more steamy than Gianni in his Sexiest Mode!) So with that claim to fame as his, Vaccarello is surely working his Oeuvre to the Nth Degree.
And therein lies the peril and the paradox.
Even though the audacity was actually reeled in this season in favor of tailoring and more focus on creatively displaying the body (though, believe... displayed it was!) it seems like it was just too little too late for it to save this collection, with it's oversized domed studs, Sheer Mesh (showing up yet again) plunging necklines and SUPER high hemlines. Most assuredly it veered from some of his most body glorifying works, and how he manages to keep these perfect bodies that wear his clothes (Anja Rubik, Anyone???) confidently encased is a thing of almost Mathematical precision.
The challenge here is that things started off with a try for more sobriety and perhaps even modesty, but by the latter third of the collection it became far too tawdry and immodest. Not that sometimes a little immodesty isn't a good thing, but here it felt not only rote, but a little Trashy, Kelly Bundy Trashy, Anna Nicole Smith Trashy, Paris Hilton/Kim Kardashian Trashy! And that soured the collection. Were there beautiful pieces, Of Course!
The Opening on Anja Rubik with a Louche long Jacket covered in studs worn with short shorts and a open blouse had Sexy down to a Science and at Exit No. 22 on Kaitlin Aas, a Siren Red dress in Pliant leather was a Surefire Hit.
Yet, for all the body empowering beauty of the collection, The pervasive feeling of too little being too much hung in the air thick and heavy and the further things progressed the less chic they became. Will Vaccarello keep his ladies who "Dare To Bare" Happy, Surely, but he can only plow that furrow so long before many will wonder if he is a One-Trick Pony or a Triple Crown Star.