What more is there to offer on Jil Sander Unceremonious THIRD Exit from the house that bears her name? Who can know her mind and who can question her decision? From the sidelines though it appears there is some Ambivalence or Schizophrenia involved. Was she just there as a Solid Rebound after Raf Simons left for the Greener Pastures of Dior? A Stopgap? Was she truly, really, seriously trying to reclaim the house with her name on the front? Speculation all of it.
One thing is a fact for certain... The house needs an injection of Stability and Commitment from someone, someone willing to put in the time to put the label on the back where it was and not fly off to some paradisic islet of glory as Raf did when he took the money and ran to Dior. Someone in it for the re-establishing of the house and as such, creating a name for themselves in the process.
On to the Matters at hand, Spring 2014. The collection can be wrapped up with little blather and bracing economy. It was a showcase of what Jil does best and only gently arced out of her established comfort zones with some elegantly embellished fabrics and a stupendous wild print that was well outside the norm for Sander. The Ascetic is always the Aesthetic Chez Jil, and here was no faltering in that practice. Sometimes in made things Antiseptic to the point of Anodyne. In other places it Shone like a Beacon in the night.
One such beacon of Light was exit No. 29, A deceptively simple shift in Virgin white belted at the waist with a curvaceous shape to it... it spoke volumes without saying as much as one word! And so it went until the show ended... was it a Swan Song of epic magnitude? No. In fact, it felt Anticlimactic in the extreme. Maybe there was going to be a continuation with Jil at the helm... Maybe this was a spur of the moment decision? Maybe she just didn't feel she could do this anymore, Who is to say? Whom truly is to know?
Whatever the case, The house has been abandoned and left to the spirits once more. where the winds of change and fashion will take it is anybody's guess, Just pray it will find a safe harbour in the near future. There is too much history here for the fields to be left fallow.
As much colour and content that Roberto Rimondi and Tomaso Aquilano tried to pack into their collection, from misguided YSL like colour combinations to the poaching of Gaugain canvases, it didn't serve to make this collection feel less unfortunate and busy with overabundance. Using primarily Lushly saturated Silks, the collection had an inherent luxury that was subverted by the more relaxed and sporty silhouettes. This was surmounted by some extremely Lavish Textural and Surface treatments from Damasks and Brocades, yet on the Optically searing Colours used in the collection, those fabrications became a little jarring!
There was too much going on, or conversely, too little. A portion of the exits verged on the skimpy in design execution and felt underwhelming, if not a bit childish! Juxtaposing these two halves of the spirit of the collection led to a disjointed air that affected the collection to it's core.
To Wrap it up, The collection was not the best from the Aquilano.Rimondi duo and has been the most recent in a line of underwhelming and unsatisfactory collections. Hopefully they can turn this streak around and come back with work that recaptures their earlier glory and brilliance.