Monday, March 3, 2014


Fri. 09/20/2013.


The design style of the Great, Late Gianni Versace is long a thing of the past. Donatella has forged her own Highly recognizable path at the house her brother so brilliantly built. She has shaped the Codes of the house into her own vision of Ultra-Luxe Sexed up Glam-More! On the one hand, to forever not be cast in the Titanic Shadow of her Big Brother, Donatella HAD to Bury the past glories of Gianni. Bury Them DEEP! On the Other hand, Her forwarding of the house identity has somehow left a hole in the Essential Fabric that is Versace.

SO, that leaves the Fashion Onlooker in something of a Quandry. Do we continue to crucify Donatella for falling away from the emblematic ideas that we fell in love with when Gianni was alive and running things? Or, do we accept that Poor Frere Versace is long dead and buried (almost 20 years now! My how times have changed) and Move on as Donatella has and live in the "What Is Now" and realize that She is NOT her Brother and she has differing Aesthetics and Tastes than he did?

I prefer the Latter route as much as I would love the Former, It's unrealistic and a Set-up for disappointment. Donatella has forged a new path, and whatever the path that Gianni may have taken had he lived to continue designing up to this point, is an exercise in the acadeamic. No one can know. We can only look at what Is, Not what Might have been!

In that respect, This was equally one of Donatella's Strongest and Weakest showings. The Opening half of the show was a Powerhouse. The mix of Denim and Raffia in the Opening exit was Vampy and Sexy yet strangely, Demure. The sky high hems and and Sinuous Pencil Skirts Gave Va-Va-Voom In Spades while the Raffia Dirndl skirts were more romantic. Donatella toughened up the looks with the "Medusa" head chains draped about the outfits giving them a bit of Glitzy Edge!

One Other Point, The Prints, although not nearly the Caliber of what Gianni produced so Prodigiously and Fluidly, were Quite Pretty and perhaps made for the times... though one could hope that at some point Donatella will do a TRUE print Revival at the house just to acknowledge one of the Symbolic House codes. Her Prints here were Spacy and Optic or hearkened back to the Glossy 80's in digitized looking Florals which then later became a more traditional floral.

The best was the 70's Concert Tee "Versace World Tour 2014" Print. on a pair of Mesh accented tees. The weakest point was the actually usually Donatella's Strongest point, The evening Wear. The gowns this season were a little, Haphazard and Inelegant. They didn't actually devolve into the trashy, but they didn't look especially Glamourous or Sophisticated, which even in the most scandalous of looks, Donatella is capable of achieving with Breathtaking ease!

In the end, it was a Stellar and Easily appreciable collection and further proved that Donatella has moved out of Gianni's Shadow and into the Bright Light of her own Magnificence. This may not have been from top to bottom the best collection she has shown, but it without one trace of doubt is a continuation of the Dialogue that is now Firmly Speaking In Donatella's Voice.

That's All.


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