Disconnect. It was the Inescapable feeling at Tomas Meier's Spring 2014 Bottega Veneta Collection. That something was most surely off in this most Intellectual of Fashion Houses. Where the Discourse here is always managed in the vernacular of the experimental, This season the Experiment seem to get away from the Experimenter. The clothes looked Disheveled and Bogged down with unnecessary weight.
Opening with a look that by any terms was a success, an all Black Two-Piece dress with a deeply cuffed short sleeve shirt and a crinkle pleated skirt was Modern, Classic and Forward looking while being easily wearable. Exit No. 2 was just as Tricky but wearable in a White version of the opening, but now with wide, Sharp flounces at the waist and hem and a Cap Sleeve top.
Things felt totally in hand though, Until Exit No. 6. Things just began to Fraction apart into Overly complex configurations, layering pleats and swirls and whorls upon and onto the outfits just belaboured them with so much experimentational over reaching that the clothes, to be honest, became somewhat ugly. There was a vacillation between the Extrovert and the contained that lent an air of discombobulation and Schizophrenia.
This Artistic tension followed the collection to it's end and didn't do anything towards resolving the inherent issue at hand... How do the elements of this collection find a resolution of the argument between Simple, Yet Complex and the just Difficultly Complex? I don't think Meier had the found the answer to that equation by the end of this show.