Saturday, March 15, 2014

Salvatore Ferragamo.

Sun. 09/22/2013.

Salvatore Ferragamo.

Massimilano Giornetti has infused new life into the Giant Powerhouse that is Salvatore Ferragamo. One of the few houses that could have survived alone on it's Accessory divisions. For more than 60 years they have made the most perfectly designed shoes and also have a thriving Handbag business. Yet, to be taken seriously, one cannot rely on accessories alone nor can a house rely on just providing Deluxe and Safe Sportswear. Like all major Players in the game, the house has to step outside and play with the big kids and that means Giornetti has to work beyond his comfort niche and insert some edge into the mix!

Sometimes, when one has more classical sensibilities, as Giornetti does, that can pose some difficulties.In the last few seasons that has yielded not only positive results, but has placed the house that Salvatore built on the Hot List of many top editors and retailers. Giornetti now has become comfortable with staying in the current waves of the moment and charting his own path amongst the throng. For Spring 2014 that provided slightly mixed results that erred on the higher on the side of good than bad.

Being current sometimes entails being risky, throwing some Curveballs in with the Fastballs and seeing what the results will be. Gironetti in some exits let the tricks get the best of the genuinely Chic and wearable pieces, like the dissecting of the middle of jackets and coats into two pieces, which as an idea was more interesting than the reality.  The kilts and wrap over skirts were also unsuccessful, for they just didn't look smart or stylish. Confused would be the best word. They didn't Detract (not totally) from the rest of the collection, they didn't add anything, to be frank, either.

What then, was the message. A tweaking of the classic sporty elements of a Woman's wardrobe, The Trench, The Kilt, The Moto Jacket, The Bomber... all done with a Light hand and usually in extremely luxe materials that ranged from Liquid Silks to Buttery Leathers. All achieved with almost nary a variation outside of the Beige/Ivory range. Throw in some Spiky coloured Hand Painted Python skin and the collection was a Extravaganza of the deluxe!

To Wit, Try Exit No. 8, Refreshing in all White with a most desirable Nautical inspired Trench and Papery Pleated Kilt. Or try Exit No. 13, Deceptively simple, with intricate side pleating via a Trench belt at the side. Exit No 28 was perhaps the peak of the show, A Fawn Beige Trench in supple, paper thin Leather was Outstanding and perhaps the chicest thing of the season.

The collection ended on a Navy note in the last few exits and closed with another Trench in Crisp Navy Silk that was the Epitome of Nighttime Chic for a Parisian Femme! Giornetti is proving he has the goods to keep the label on the front lines of fashion and keep his soldiers well appointed whilst in battle. In all houses there are stumbles along the way, it's the mark of a not a good, but a Great designer that even with stumbling that they can also produce Covetous clothes along with the tricks. Giornetti has the Reigns of the house firmly in hand, and shows no sign of letting up the slack!

That's All.


No comments:

Post a Comment