For the Eccentric, Bohemian Woman, Milan has a couple of house ideal for her Eclectic tastes... There is the Arch, Satirical, Almost Bitterly Defiant Eccentricities of Miuccia Prada, The Intellectual, Precise Uber-Luxe Modernist Tomas Meier at Bottega Veneta, and the Darling of Boho... Consuelo Castiglioni at Marni who offers the Free Spirited Boho the most eccentric and eclectic fashion of the lot! Whereas the Intellectual is primary for Prada and Meier, although they definitely fall on the polar extremes of the Intellectual side, for Castiglioni, Intellect is sublimated for Emotion! Her vision is always informed with a Kooky Playfulness and Visceral artiness that edges sometimes into the comic, Yet she manages to pull the reins just before it topples into Buffoonery!
For Spring 2014, Castiglioni's Marni was given the Athletic patina that has coloured much of the Spring 2014 collections. Working the Sporty/Athletic Bohemian miasma hanging about in her own way, Castiglioni managed to inject a sense of modernity into her work which usually has a Hippy-ish vein running right through the middle of it. Oh, Yes. There was Hippy, Earth Mother elements on display, (Would it be Marni if not?) but translated through the prism of Sportif, those elements were rendered fresher and more relevant to a different strata of Clientele!
The Simple Black Dress of Exit No. 2 when viewed closer showed it was not simple in the least, with it's different fabric drop sleeve and T-Shirt neckline it would work on the Streets of Manhattan as it would Haight-Ashbury! Another Exit of note, Exit No. 6, all in Black, Clean and Simple and Restrained and as Perfect as anything this season with a belted Duster coat and Pants with deep cuffs in a sueded fabrication that was as Pure as it was Pure Genius!
If one looks past the Gym shoe inspired Platform sandals and Sun Visors which are obvious sport tropes, she kept the shapes minimal and athletic which also gave a sporty feel to the clothes. At Exit No. 7, we were given a whiff of full on Marni Boho with an Oversized and patently lovely Nature print that fit in with miraculous ease! However with just a few exits in prints, that whimsy was gone quickly, never to return. It was shocking, But welcome in the extreme.
By the time we were rounding the bend to the Finale exits, a couple of toppers in Gleaming Perforated (Showing it's head again) Patent were standouts of the highest regard. A Spectacular wrap Jacket/Coat in Deep Bordeaux with an embroidered collar at Exit No. 24 was Blissfully Gorgeous! As the show worked towards it's end we were given the most Soul Satisfying Sensory and Embellishment Overload! It would make a Magpies Heart Flutter. Castiglioni just heaped on with Zealous abandon Beads and Oversized plastic Sequins and small fabric modeled flowers and more... it was dizzying and Virtuosic and so free in it's joyous excess that one could not smile, She even finished the show in an All White version that could easily be used as a Modern Hippy's Bride dress!
Castiglioni showed a new and astounding versatility this season that was coupled with her steady and assured Bohemian hand which produced a collection of Staggering Brilliance. It was one for the Ages!