Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Emilio Pucci.

Sat. 09/21/2013.

As time has progressed at the house of Emilio Pucci, Peter Dundas has grown more and more confident in his Super Deluxe Bohemian Rock offerings for the house and his clientele. He has cultivated an Oozingly Sexy Oeuvre in the manner of what Decarnin did at Balmain and others have begun to finesse as their Home Base of Style. Dundas may be the Gold Standard of this realm and also may be the most diverse. He has the rich history of the Pucci Legacy to feather his nest and work within that mould whilst injecting his own mind into the mix. It has been, from the start, an amalgam of perfection and unity of vision! Dundas has rarely set one foot wrong since he left Ungaro to take over the house Emilio Built.

This collection, somehow, felt something of the atavistic in that it was more a recalling of his early days at the house, where in recent collections Dundas has pared the Pucci Swirls and Dots and Psychedelic Fantasmagoria optical prints as more accompaniments to his burgeoning voice, This collection relied heavily on those prints but didn't feel as if they were a Crutch. There was far too much else going on for them to feel dominant in the Grand Scheme of things.

Starting on the Joan Smalls, A Bejeweled supple leather tee was paired with a Beaded and copiously embroidered mini that showed at least 3 disciplines of adornment in one skirt. Firmly rooted in the Deluxe, but was comfortably Easy and Scathingly Sexy! The first third of this collection was dominated with these lavish embellishments and the vaguely tribal variation on the optic Pucci prints. The Tribal look came along in Beading and Intricate woven versions as well in this section... as in a Strapless short dress at Exit No. 11.

Next on the menu... Peter Dundas is Well known for his Sporty/Athletic interjections into the language of Pucci, this season was no exception. With Motocross pants and Skydiving inspired Jumpsuits in Bold and Bright colours like Royal and Carrot they stood out quite definitely Amongst the throng. Another trope was sarong draping, but that wasn't really as successful as Dundas may have hoped and bogged the Esprit of the collection down a bit. However a Skintight Jet beaded Catsuit and Sequined Jacket all in Black at Exit No. 40 (Again on the Dazzling Joan Smalls) was an Allover success!

In the end, On the one hand, It was nice to see the Pucci prints back and rocking harder than ever, but on the other, there was an obvious lack of focus and cohesion in this collection that stopped it from being one of Dundas' masterworks for the house. But, Gosh, He's due a little slippage... he's been hitting such highs consistently for the last 3 years or so that he cannot be at all faulted for not always batting it into the nosebleed seats! It's simply a testament to Dundas' Greatness that even when he isn't clicking on all cylinders his work is still some of the best to be found!

That's All.


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