Most often, the simplest of gestures make the most impact, so for all the innovative shapes and decorous embellishments in Antonio Berardi's quite fetching Resort 2016 collection, that axiom held very much true. The less Berardi played around with his clothes, the more enticing and desirable they were. It's comic to say that, considering when Berardi first appeared on the scene he was more of the Firebrand Heir Apparent to the Astonishingly brilliant pair of fellow Enfant Terrible Brits, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen! In fact, in some ways, he outshined them with some of the most Controversial and Fuck You, Conventional, shows and collections on the calendar.
Somewhere along the line, Berardi has left the controversial and contrived behind and has become a designer known for being innovative, but not exactly... Confrontational. It has led his clothes down some ungainly paths as of late and has also led to some truly exhilarating pieces being conceived. This resort collection shows his skills quite wonderfully. Not everything was a success, but the outfits that were, resounded with a Clarion preciseness. One aside, Berardi's play of inflated volumes, while tricky at best and decidedly Avant, were not always successful. Berardi gets points for pushing boundaries and creating a very singular silhouette, but it came off more bulbous and engorged than Soignè!
Sleeker looks yielded much more captivating results. A Black and White Gown splashed with oversized White macramé Lace was a Resounding winner as was the fluid Cardinal Red unadorned but for covered buttons gown near the end of the looks. Berardi is a incredibly talented designer, His Point of View has changed significantly since his younger days, but his skills are still something to be reckoned with. It would be nice, really it would, to see him revisit his younger self and inject some of that Hot Blooded Passion that used to consume his work. Who knows, it may push him into an even newer and better direction!