Thursday, September 1, 2016

Marc Jacobs Resort 2016.

Tues. 06/09/2015.

Decoding all the references that combine to create one of Marc Jacobs' always Masterful opuses thoroughly, is a task better suited to a motley group of Fashion Historians and Psychoanalysts! Jacobs collections are always turgid and multilayered affairs that leave one unequivocally Breathless and Giddy and Perplexed and Bemused and Amazed and just flat out Delighted! There is so much richness and complexity, even in the simplest of expressions, that you're always needing just one more look to glean further insight into the quixotic whole! Jacobs mind, is perhaps the most Fertile and Febrile in the fashion universe save the only person in the cavalcade of designers whom's mind is working at an even more agile pace, Karl Lagerfeld. Although, I have said it before and it Bears Strong repeating... With his Knowledge and Skills, Jacobs is perhaps the only designer capable of continuing on at Chanel, When/IF Karl ever decides to abdicate his Royal perch there. I cannot envisage ANYONE who is within even a Billion Parsecs of Jacobs when it comes to being able to not take Lagerfeld's place, NO Being could ever do THAT, but to Succeed him and continue on in his Brazen Spirit, Maybe even now and again... Achieve something Greater! 

Getting past ALL THAT... Jacobs' Resort 2016 collection was once again, Absolutely Pitch Perfect! And one of the few times he did not fully do a 180° Degree volte-face and blithely skip along to some other vein of inspiration. His Resort collection was a continuation... of a manner... of his Fall Diana Vreeland-Inspired missive that was truly one of his most dynamic and blissfully overloaded orgies of FASH-ION, ever! This resort collection was no less ecstatic, though it was a trifle bit less unrestrained than Fall. Saying that, every outfit was embellished in some form, either with Geegaws and Beads, Sequins and Cutouts, Grommets, Studs, Nail Heads, Crystals, Pearls, GOD KNOWS, you name it, IT WAS THERE! As imprudent as all that would make one believe it was, it had in fact, the absolute opposite effect, Where in Fall there was a Dark, sometimes even, Sinister opulence that was unrelenting and Sensualist, here, all those embroideries and accoutrements lent an air of sublime gaiety and naiveté that was never childish, but spellbindingly GIRLISH! 

The one thing in all this that was never lost, Jacobs' Skill as a Tailor. In fact, that was the thing that saved the overabundance from feeling like a Gimmick to mask sub-par clothes. Which in the case would have just made the clothes look cheap and tawdry. No, Jacobs' clothes looked ALL THE MORE Rich and Excessively Opulent because the things he put them on were so outstandingly well-made, Much even of a Demi-Couture scale. it was Jacobs's Schlocking up of everything that kicked the Preciousness and Stuffiness out of all of it! Make no mistake though, Precious though they may not be, these were not commonplace or quotidian in any respect. Even the, by most standards, Basic V-Neck Argyle Sweater (In Red and Grey) was enlivened with a quilting of beads and embroideries and placed over a Decadent skirt done in various degrees of Broderie Anglaise, or the Prep-school boyish Double Breasted Pinstriped pantsuit that was Lavishly edged in Stones and Pearls and Beads, which had it been adornment free would have still been Genius, but not exactly, Lively! 

Jacobs' Kaleidoscopic view of fashion is what makes him an instrumental force in the fashion pantheon. He truly does not give a bold faced SHIT about being expected or following anyone's lead but his own! He is as Idiosyncratic as he is Iconoclastic, His clothes scream to be seen and takes a woman who has real Backbone to wear them, Conversely, they also have the communicative effect towards the wearer to GIVE them confidence! To make the Wallflower a Warrior! To make the Meek, Bold! There's a sense of performance in Jacobs' clothes that empowers a woman to step behind them and let them speak for her if she has not the power to do so herself. And for those already empowered enough, well, the clothes are accomplices, Sly friends urging her to be her most emboldened self. That's quite the fucking fashion prestidigitation, if you ask me! Lady or Tramp, Marc Jacobs is there for you, Resort was one of his Masterpieces, from Amber Valletta in a Soigné suit to start, to my Detroit Homegirl, the lusciously Leggy Riley Montana closing the festivities in a Jet Beaded Frock that echoed multiple eras as diverse as the 20's and Jacobs Halcyon 90's in equal measure, Jacobs and Vreeland proved to be a Winning Pair. Now, as we are well aware, Marc's constitution could no more stand a 3rd inning with Diana than Tweety Bird could stand to be in the same room with Sylvester the Cat, so we know that Jacobs next outing will be as Diametrically opposite to this collection as any ever. The best thing was though, we got to sit a little longer in the Parlor of Diana and have a Cuppa with her and Marc, MAHVELLOUS Company, Indeed! 

That's All.


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