Wednesday, September 7, 2016

Naeem Khan Resort 2016.

Tues. 06/09/2015.

Naeem Khan was the assistant and Protégé of Halston and knowing this bit of information, one might expect his clothes to be a trifle less dated and Old-Fashioned, But they are not. Where Halston was completely of his time when he was designing, Khan seems trapped in a 80's/90's bubble, one that he, by the looks of things, is inescapably encompassed within. His Resort 2016 collection was a case of that tree bearing prodigious fruit to support such a hypothesis. It had an unwavering atavistic tone to it that looked as if some nighttime Soap Opera diva was going to come sashaying down a Spiral staircase, swathed in geegaw sized Jewels and dripping with Richesse Opulence. 

Khan was inspired by Exotic locales and the clothes looked as such, but as with any of the houses that bank on a steady diet of Treacly, Saccharine Evening confections, it can, and usually does, go from Palate Satisfying to Ooey-Gooey Overload in 2.7 seconds... FLAT! Couple that with a crippling antiquated aura and you're left with an Upset Tummy and in need of something refreshing and bubbly to soothe one's overworked system. Khan let it all hang out and it wasn't the most Raffinée output in terms Elegance. The clothes screamed more than shouted and there is a distinct difference betwixt the two. 

A couple pieces didn't capsize under the weight of their own Largesse but came diabolically close. A Luminous Cinderella Blue Caftan smothered in Silvery Beading and Embroidery looked more modern than most of anything else for the simple fact alone that it rung with an authenticity and delight in it's own indulgence that it felt more Gay and Free than the rest of the pieces. And a Valentino-Inspired Organdy ballgown in tones of Dusty Taupe, Maroon, Ash Grey and Sky Blue was perhaps the more Contemporary piece in the collection and set itself apart from everything else because of it's Artistic Verve. 

Otherwise... best to forget about it. Khan can have glimpses of promise, but after so many years of churning out gowns and outfits more suited to the Charity set or even more damning, The Prom Circuit, it feels as there is nothing more that can be done to stop this boat from sinking. 

That's All.


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