Monday, February 3, 2014

Jonathan Saunders.

Sun. 09/15/2013.

70's meets 90's seems a mini trend on the runways of Spring 2014. Jonathan Saunders is working that vibe with a distinct eye towards the modern version of what that would look like in his collection for S/S 2014. There was something of that Cool Cali vibe that has been peek-a-booing itself here and there for Spring (Most Notably at Tommy Hilfiger) and was given a more Intellectual bent here at Saunders.

His colour combos had the distinct feel of the 70's with an almost "Brady Bunch" Colour Wheel In Use. Ochres and Browns mixed with Sapphire and Purple and Even More.... every colour of the Rainbow curried favour here... and it was only with Saunders Masterful hand that they never did err on the grotesque. Marrying Berry with Camel, Caramel and Cocoa in the opening exit in less assured hands could have been Queasy-making in the utmost, here it had a 70's Interior design Aesthetic that was shocking in it's boldness but seemed quite familiar and charming. Changing those 70's notions into 90's hallmark pieces such as bermuda/board shorts and a Moto jacket were the genius of the colourations!

Patchworking has been a flavour of the season also and showed up here in Magnificent Form. Patching together sheer and solid, Embroidered and Printed, Shiny and Matte... It was all Dazzlingly Complicated! But achieved with an ease and sportiness that kept it from being tricky! There was truly an abundance of Incredible Technique on show here and it was used to Splendiferous Effect!

Especially Intriguing were the tracery floral embroideries, They were risky however they had and ephemerality to them that was Tres Charmant! A couple of Varsity jackets with naive floral embroidery on the front panels balanced the Sporty and the Haute in rewarding ways!

Finding a Niche of Cool Bohemian for the Modern world to work in, Saunders produced a Stunning if somewhat more low-key affair for him but what it did not have in Fireworks it had in Mesmerizing Technical facility and a Eye to Colour that is Unparalleled. Dissection of the entire collection would render it no more wondrous than simply viewing it and absorbing it's magical charms would!

That's All.


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