Saturday, February 1, 2014

Mary Katrantzou.

Sun. 09/15/2013.

Shoes. As Inspiration. For... PRINTS??? Maybe not so much! It was a Hard job to pull off to not make Katrantzou's Famously Tropme L'Oeil Realistic Prints of SHOES not come off a little Gimmicky. Not only that, They never seemed to hit the right places on the body in the way they were engineered and for the most part, looked unsettling and unflattering. The eye was just going to places and mashing up details that shouldn't be mashed up together, giving a Garish feel to many of the outfits. 

Not that it missed the mark in every exit, Exit No. 6 was Quite perfect with it's shiny Wingtip print in Oxblood consisting of a short jacket and flippy pleated skirt with a Ruffle arcing it's way over one hip. It's when she started mixing Trainers with a Somewhat, Vaguely Tropical Floral print that things got WAY out of hand.

Blissfully, She saved herself and the collection with the experimental volumes of the Lesage enhanced printed finale. With their Oversized Ruffles and Balloon Shapes They had the hand of A Couturiere In them from top to hem. The Riotous Colours and Combinations of Floral Prints and Embroideries were Hypnotic in their Complexity and Daring. They had a Cartoonish feel to them that made them all that more difficult to NOT notice! Katrantzou showed an almost Lagerfeldian Hand with the Juxtapositions of Fabric and Elaborate Rebrodee. They were not only Brilliant, They were Otherworldly!

If the entire collection had been riffs on these final evening (Could they possibly also be worn for day? Mayhaps!) and giving more thought to how to transform that idea, it might have been a collection for the history books! Yet, with that Inexplicable opening set... The collection never was able to spread it wings and fly. Dismally, It lay Grounded to the earth that those shoes that she so dumbfoundingly used for prints trod on!

That's All.


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