Thursday, November 20, 2014

Derek Lam.

Sun. 09/07/2014.

Derek Lam.

I don't know why, But as I perused the images of Derek Lam's Spring 2015 collection, I couldn't stop envisioning, Equally, The "Brady Bunch" Women's (Alice, not included) Innocence and the Magnificent Sensuality of "Charlie's Angels" This Cross-Pollination of the Benign, Pretty, Feminine Chasteness of the Brady's to the "Angels" Bountiful, Fresh, Beachy Ripened, Playful Sexuality all came to the fore in Lam's Extraordinary Spring collection! The 70's is a Fertile Playground for Designers to frolic in, usually with somewhat less literal results, but that Lam went full on Way Back in the Way Back Time Machine yielded a surprisingly Fabulous collection from the always Fabulous Lam!

All That Suede... All That Topstitching... how could one not be transported to the Time of Beachy, Southern California, "Sister Golden Hair" Hippie/Boho, Haight-Ashbury Chicness? It was impossible not to smile when gazing upon these pieces offered up by Lam, The Positivity of the Colours, Dusty Lilac, Violet, Haze Blue, Mallard Teal, Raisin, Mineral Green, An orgy of Upbeat and Chipper Hues combined in Glorious ways to enhance the 70's feeling of the collection. Lam's excision of the inherently overworked and overdone just showed in stronger relief the Beauty of the Patchworking and Topstitching accents.

Lam has secured a Niche for himself in offering Sportswear with an extremely special Patina to them, Here among the already unique, but still basic pieces, He showed more Risk with this collections more Editorial pieces, defining a Delicate balance between the two Hemispheres. Example, The Patchwork Topcoat in Dusty Raisin, Lilac, and Haze Blue with a Simple Shift dress in that same Lilac was Thrillingly Extrovert but still as easily wearable as the perfect White Shirt and Pant Ensemble with Lam's new riff on the Matelot Pant. Those Matelot details showed up Often and always looked fresh, as Lam did not wear out their welcome, In a Black Gilet and Pant set it worked Majestically, As it did on a more decorated Ensemble consisting of a skirt with the Sailor button and a Brass Studded top all in White.

The only low point to this collection, The Two Finale dresses were incredibly Frumpy and Flat feeling without One, Single Trace of Glamour. It was an odd choice for the Finale, after the Major success of all that came before, to leave this as the lingering last look of the Marvellous show, was certainly a Steep Miscalculation. One that could be forgiven for the rest of everything was so Stupendous, but still, a discombobulating decision!

That's All.


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