Sunday, September 8, 2013

Costello Tagliapietra.

Thurs. 09/05/2013.

Costello Tagliapietra.

Jeffrey and Robert have always had Keen and Especially intuitive Colour Sense... sometimes equal in the modern sense to that of the Great Master of all things Colour, Yves Saint Laurent. Many may think that stretching it a bit, but if one was to pour over their output from day one to today, they wouldn't have much of a compelling argument against such a postulation! Iterating that Salient point first is key to finding the Transfiguring Beauty in their collection this Spring 2014.

It... Was.... About..... COLOUR! Saturated hues from Carrot Orange to Turquoise Blue to Marigold Yellow to Peach, Olive, Ciel Bleu and back Again! Although it sounds Vivid and like a lot... the Success of the matter was the fact that they didn't spin out of control from those few colours and continue to Add more Colours into the already Saturated Mix! Judicious Editing... The Hallmark of any Great Designer(s)!

The collection was an Ode to the Self, that self being Robert and Jeffrey! Taking the Tropes of their own Uniform of the every day, and Configuring them to suit their customer was a bit of Self-Indulgent genius that could have come off as Egotistical had it not been so heartfelt and guileless! The opening Exit a Paean to The always Omnipresent Plaid that Drapes the Handsome Bears most usually... but in a colour combo that you know neither of them would be caught DEAD In! It was A Jarringly Beautiful Juxtaposition of Aquatic Blue and Carrot Orange (How DID they Know those are my Two FAVORITE Colours? *WINK*) but as the eye adjusted and was given relief by the Clean, Spare Charcoal skirt one realized how Positive and Uplifting the Plaid Colours were! No woman is going to have a Sad day wearing such Upbeat Shades!

Next out was another Eye Scorcher! HOT CARROT ORANGE HEAD TO TOE! OH MY GOD YES! That's All I Have To Say, Chillrens! It was Awfully nice to see the guys ply their handiwork to an Honest To God PANTSUIT! It was Cut, EXQUISITELY, and was incredibly flattering, MORE SO because of it's Electric brightness!

Then a Relieving shade of Olive in one of their typically masterful dresses... and another pantsuit! In Ciel Bleu with that opening Plaid as the back of the Blazer. paired with DEEP Turquoise Pants, it was a True revelation and one that Most designers wouldn't have the Balls to attempt! The plaid showed up again in a couple more outfits and the faded into the background and Jeffrey and Robert began to focus on Blocking and Insetting of Colours together to some stunning effect...

I stop there because, I could go on about each and every outfit individually and would sacrifice any kind of Brevity this review may have had, But, suffice it to say... virtually every outfit was up to the Scrupulous standards of the Duo! TWO Stood out from the pack in such a way though that they need to be mentioned Definitely...

Exit No. 21. If, by any chance, there were EVER any doubt that these Two Gentleman have Impeccable tailoring and dress making skills... Then this exit would put that Idea Well to rest! In DEEP Ink Blue, It's apparent simplicity was betrayed by it's sublime drape and fit... So Perfectly Constructed, that the dress LITERALLY could have been worn Backwards and not only would have looked the same, but no one would possibly be able to tell that it was! A Masterpiece of Construction and Design!

Exit No. 24 was the other. Same rules above apply, But this was something different... the Mallard Green Jersey Poured over the body of the model like it was an extension of her own Skin! Not ONE Micron of the dress was out of place or rumpled or Betrayed the construction of the gown! This is something that has crept into their collection that should truly be noted... The Halston-Like Skill in which they construct some of their pieces is simply, Mind Boggling! That gown could sashay next to any Original Halston and Equal or RIVAL it in Spades! It brought me almost to tears!

If i had one Complaint, And I Do... I would start by saying... Jeffrey and Robert. You Know I Love You Guys, you can do little to no wrong in my book, However... I know you two are keeping the business small and exclusive. but you two are Major Players in the NY Fashion Arena!!! It is time to start Showing It! You are FAR Better than 3/4 of the people showing at Lincoln Center and You should Stake your Rightful Claim there. And in the time slot you had... there were no other shows using Major Girls... BOOK THEM! Book the BIG Names, if only 3-5 of them... Your shows are always so Splendidly diverse and I must imagine you like that Diversity and Uniqueness (And God Bless You two for it!) but this is Fashion, My Dahlinks! You two DESERVE To have the Big Gals Strutting your runway... Yes, yes, you had Rose Cordero this season, but one Minor Major girl isn't going to get you the notice you deserve!

I Adore These Gentleman and saying that, I would also be all too eager to write a review if I DIDN'T like their collection! Honesty is something that is integral to Fashion! But I can't say anything bad about this collection because it was SO DAMN GOOD!

Perhaps... One of their Absolute Best!

That's All.


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