Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Helmut Lang.

Fri. 09/06/2013.

Inexorably Cool! The only way to describe this Home-Run Collection! Nicole and Michael Colovos finally sank into the Warm Pool of Classic Helmut Lang. And, while continuing to Imprint their own Aesthetic onto the Lang Brand and Dna, Struck a Confident, Swaggering, Assured balance between the two! Not an easy Trick. Especially when the Lang Codes are As Ancient as they are recognizable. 

Most of the Youngbloods of the Fashion Zeitgeist are only familiar, VAGUELY, with what exactly it was that made Helmut so Polarizing and Revered during his heyday! I admit... I was one of the converted only in Hindsight... Near the end of his career is only when I had actually grasped what it was that Lang did So Magically Only as my Fashion IQ was rising did what he gave the fashion world begin to make sense! Lang, Freed Women. Freed them to be Stridently Confident. Luxuriously Cool and Powerfully Aware of their own Feminine Powers without ever Subjugating them to Arcane Codes of what was perceived as Feminine! Women, In Lang's hands, were Sexual Raconteur AND Provocateur in equal Measure... In Fact, She never HID her womanly wiles. Actually, She Flaunted them, Brazenly. With that Power came the Cool Reserve of Knowing, Assurance, Conviction. 

Were his designs sometimes Tricky, Yes, At certain moment, Hopelessly so, but it was within that experimentation that the codes became Refined and Defined until they were honed to Crystal Clarity! 

Such tropes were suddenly Front and Center in the Colovos' Collection Presented Friday. From the Spareness to the plays of Sheerness, the Rigour of the cuts and Slim, Lithe lines of the clothes... to the Artistically playful skewing of how the garments fit. Exit No. 1 Was so easy to want! Linear, Clean. Nothing Extraneous! Just what was Essential! It had a Surgical Precision that was kinda Scary. and Breath Stealing also! My Jaw is still scraping the floor! Exit No. 2 was just as Clear and Spare! Pristine, Immaculate! Nothing more need to be said! 

There were far too many exits to go into Elaborated detail over... one could spend 15 minutes glorifying each exit in words, Though time could be spent better by being as Economical as The Colovos' were with the clothes and the Edit! 

A Few mentions... Cora Emmanuel in Exit No. 14 Measured Perfection in it's Perforated Leather Zip front jacket and cropped Tee with a artistic feeling wrap Skirt! Exits Nos. 20-23, Imbued with a Neon Shade of Rosy Pink were also Channeling the Helmut of days gone by! 

But it was a pair of looks that proved that Nicole and Michael simply weren't dredging up past glories and recycling them... That one was  truly seeing the Evolution of Lang but with the Colovos Imprint. One of the Two being Exit No. 26. A Slender Shift with a Zip up the front that was Modern, Sleek and Languid all at once! In Helmut's hands... it would have been pushed to the extreme and most likely paneled and MUCH Sheerer! The Colovos' Reigned it in and made it Sweeter, More Genteel. Aggressive not one bit but very much Strong! and then Exit No. was as Sober and Spartan as anything Helmut could have ever dreamed of. On Lais Ribeiro, The Black suit was Relaxed with an almost 80's Mugler Slouch to it that never the less was Crisp!

 Wherever Helmut Lang (The Real Flesh and Blood Person) is, if he ever thinks of the label he started and what has become of it... Well, Chillrens...

He Can Sleep Soundly Knowing it's Being Treated Quite Lovingly by Mr. & Mrs. Colovos!

That's All.


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