Getting this off my chest first.
Did Felipe Oliveira Baptista NOT Get the Memo about Diversity on the runway??? Seems to have not. Because he hadn't ONE Female model of anything other than the Pale Variety on the runway! Not the way one would like to Present Themselves in a Season where there are those in the business trying to change things. It was Sad, It was Angering, It was Rather, Insulting! SO MANY Designers have followed by showing how Diverse models serve the clothes as well as all Melanin Deficient ones do! No matter how Covetous I find this collection. I can't really with any honesty say it wasn't severely diminished by such Racist Antics, Because.... It Was!
Putting that Aside, Dear Friends, The Collection was Wholly AMAZING! I don't want to Love it as much as I do, But I, In the interest of being a Bigger person and looking beyond the Shocking and Glaring Schism of Diversity in the collection, will value and judge the collection on it's Clothing merits alone.
I confess, 98% of the Mens' Half of this collection made my heart ache with Covetous Desire! It was All Instantly Wantable and Lustful! The Women's side of things were filled with so many Awe-Inspiring Pieces, That to recount them all would take pages of Type and would be far too Prolix of me. Highlights though, Sure!
The Opening Salvo on Julia Nobis (MY SHE IS HOMELY! I have said it already but in this instance it bears repeating... Felipe, you book Julia Nobis... Hook Face that she is and can't find ONE Model of Colour to fit the edit? BITCH, PLEASE!) had plenty of ease and sophistication, bringing to mind the work of the 20's tennis culture! The Severity and Subtlety of a Chocolate Malt coloured Coat at Exit No. 8 had Desirable written all over it. Exit No 11 also brought one to their knees in it's Slim, Spare, Austere Simplicity. How can a Crop top and Pencil skirt cause so much Burbling Ecstasy! I dunno, but it did here! Exit No. 20 was a Riff on the Polo top taken to dress length and inserted with sheer panels in the most Delicious shade of Glacier Blue! PERFECT!
More you say, Yes there is More... Exit No. 22 is one of the Hottest and most Editorial looks so far the entire season and should be getting pulled now by every Magazine Editor for future Photo shoots! Exit No. 24 occupies that same rarefied space as being the most Languid Day-to-Evening Shirt-Dress in Town! In a Sensational shade of Cinnamon it's Something Very Special! Exit No. 34 needs mentioning as well... A Dusty Suede T-Shirt dress with a flippy hem on the skirt is Sophisticated Casual in a Nutshell!
After that we have Mackenzie Drazan (LUV HER!) in a Brief Papaya Shift with matching Zip-front Duster that Was Gasp-Inducing in it's Radiance! From there on we got some Watery Pastel Printed pieces that were a welcome shot of relaxation, And then the show ended in a Flurry of White that would make Helmut Lang Proud in their Meshing of the Solid and Sheer! (Seems like Helmut Lang is also going to be a Season running theme like the 90's and grunge!) it worked Desperately well where it could have come off Terrifically Awkward and Ungainly. But they didn't
P.S. I WANT That opening Man's Topcoat with an Wholly Unholy Passion!
In the end. The collection was Insanely Good... for NY I'd rank it in the top 10 already. It may even crack the top 10 for the whole season. But that's having the good grace to Overlook the Glaring Inequity of the casting of models. That's Not something that one should have to justify forgiving or setting aside for the sake of the beauty of the clothes.
Some say the Clothes should speak for themselves and we should focus on that alone, Chillrens... to them I Say, BUGGER OFF! In this world that's a Cop Out and a Venal, Puerile Stance to take! Not only women of pale complexions buy the clothes and to so easily dismiss that there are women of this world OTHER Than White is Infuriating and Backwoods in it's reckoning!
The Collection Rocked... But It was Far more Evident that there are some Rocks In Felipe Oliveira Baptista's Head!