Gilles Mendel has been at the helm of the Family Business since 1981 and in the last decade or so has moved from the house specialty of Luxury Top-Tier furs, to primarily known as a Maker of Stunning Red Carpet Evening Gowns and as of Late, Deluxe Sportswear. That Deluxe sportswear angle has Slingshot him up the Ladder of Fashion Power Players. He has in the last couple seasons as well, Brought a Couture Quality to his Expensive, Luxe Sportswear, which has produced some Stunning creations and this collection was Chock full to the Brim with That Exacting attention to Couture Level Execution.
For Spring 2014 that Level of Craftsmanship was on Ample display, Mendel concerned himself with Intricate Patchworking and and Insetting of Lace, Brocade, Fur and Laser-Cut Diamond Mesh in Multiple colours and patterns. Starting off with a long sleeve patchwork Tee Dress that segued into more elaborate evocations of the theme. The Technique was Giddily Punishing and not the least bit overwrought or Tortured. There was an Ephemeral ease that has been imbuing most of the collections of the season and was Transfigured here into something more Regal and less Waifish.
Exit No. 5 was a complex Amalgam of Sheared Mink, Lace, and Mesh in a Sleek Zip-Front jacket paired with lace short shorts. A Simply Marvellous Geometric Affair of Bubble Gum Pink Lace, Mesh and Brocade at Exit No.8 was Buoyant and Refreshing and without a Sequin, Bead or Crystal, equally Drop Dead Glam! Also Utterly DEVASTATING was Exit No. 13 in a Simple appearing but in no Matter simply Constructed evening gown in White mesh and Crepe.
A Brilliant Caban in White was Optically constructed in Parallel Angles of Sheer and Solid stripes At Exit No. 17 Was Gasp-Worthy and Icily Sharp! Exit No. 31 Had that same Icy Sharpness In a Simple White Crepe Dress with a Tiered Hem that was Cut with Scalpel Like Precision!
Along the way Mendel Traversed a lot of territory in telling his story this season. from Sugary Pastels and Rich Rugged Earthen tones, to Cool Metal Colours and Metallics, like the section Super Shiny silver pieces DENSELY Embroidered with leaves in a Matte Silver thread or later in DEEP Emerald. At the finish Line we were given Retina Burning BRIGHTS in Hot Pink and Coral Juxtaposed against Puce Red.
With Relief... the Finale was Black... ALL BLACK and seemed in a strange way to cleanse and refresh the eye. It was just that Palate Cleanser that was needed to bring the message home in the most effective way and anchor all that had come before to the Terra Firma of Modern Reality! When all was Said And Done, Mendel had stretched his arms out wide and culled a Bounty of Riches from his inspiration and in the process surely made his name one to be reckoned with in the Halls of New York Fashion. With a most Distinctive Voice and Eye and Hand Mendel has shown that He has arrived and this collection made sure that everyone knew... He's here to Stay!