Thursday, January 23, 2014

Marchesa and Anna Sui.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

There was really nothing new Chez Marchesa. The same Stale show format, the same increasingly elaborate reiteration of the same gowns we have seen dozens of times and this time with no Major Model faces (Save Lindsay Wixon) to spark the fires of desire... it just felt as flat as Day-Old Soda Pop! 

A women who goes to Marchesa wants the wares that Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig are hawking... they know what they are in for... but from fashion standpoint, the message has become rote and frankly... been done better by them in the past. 

The collection suffered from a reliance on a Certain Galliano Feel that it didn't seem to fully escape by the shows end...  there was a lack of vision in the Styling and the clothes just felt like over elaborate Preteen clothes! It simply lacked the spirit that a Modern woman would want to carry her through an evening. Some of these pieces on the right woman will make Red-Carpet Magic, But life is not a series of Red Carpets, is it not? I will not go into as I have already in previous Posts the irrelevance of a fashion house that only produces evening garb. My feelings on it are known by now and you can revisit those opinions in past posts. But, Marchesa is suffering the same lack of diversity and if at ANY house where some diversity would be welcome it would be here... for each increasingly Overdone Frock begins to strain the eye and credulity ever more! 

Were there some Winners, of course, Chapman and Craig are too Adept at this milleu to produce a complete collection of Treacly Nothings... Exit No. 5 was a Gorgeously Floral embroidered Knockout with a Hi-Lo Fishtail hem... SUBLIME! Exit No. 12 was also a Masterpiece... Tiers of Cloud Grey Silk and Silver Lace and White Plumettes.... DAZZLING!

Yet after that... things begin to transmorgrify into something, less than Gainly! Exit No. 16 was a Traipse through a Galliano nightmare and was to be quite bald about it... Ugly! Exit No. 17 had it's charms but the Black Outfits that proceeded from Exits No. 18-24 should have been pitched into the Dumpster... Again A Aping of Galliano codes that just looked Downright Awkward and Graceless! Lindsay Wixon's look in Exit No. 23 almost made it past muster... But still didn't quite make the Grade. And that Heavy, Leaden Pearl Number At Exit No. 26.... The Less Said, The Better!

It ended in Quite a Lovely way with a Couture Worthy Empire Bodiced Gown that was screaming for a Young Starlet to give it Wings... But as a whole... it was an unsatisfactory Mess! Not the best showing from the Marchesa Duo, and sadly it hasn't been a bumper crop of shows the last couple seasons... I think Chapman and Craig need to push the refresh button and look at the stuff that made them the superstars they had become. Should they continue with Uneven Showings like this, They are not going to keep the fires of that memory burning for much longer!

Anna Sui.

Pre-Raphaelites, Edward Burne-Jones, The Masai, Victoriana, Balinese Dancers, The 60's Design Collective "The Fool" All reference points for Anna Sui this Spring 2014 season. And as Eclectic and Daring as that Mash-Up may sound, it really didn't translate into anything more than Par For The Course, Chez Sui. This Hippy, Trippy grunge girl through the ages has been a Motif that Sui has revisited multiple times with pretty much the same result. If it wasn't included in her notes... there was also an allusion to Alphonse Mucha and his Art Nouveau looks of the early 20th century and hints of Erte of the Art Deco Period.

As much as there was the inevitable Haight-Ashbury Hippy Vibe there was an equal nod to '90's Grunge of which with her friend Marc Jacobs, Sui was one of the Progenitors of that style back in the day. Yet again though, this isn't new territory being tread by Sui and by that token... it felt all too familiar!

It started with a Baby Doll in 2014 guise and not so much the 1993 version as this one had the New Luxe Patina that the 1993 version would have Avoided like the plague... in 21 years, fashion has morphed greatly. The Dress had an Arty-Earthy bent to it and was predictably pretty. However, Still... Predictable.

Everything seemed to stay on this course from beginning to end and it is to be commended that Sui can still produce such a pretty and safely wearable collection as this when we have the Miasma of "Been There, Done That" Perfuming the air. That Sui has failed it seems to work beyond her own Codes and Safe Zone is less commendable and left a somewhat Stale aftertaste. We all know Sui has the Flower Power... One would just wish she was growing something a bit different in her Garden!

That's All.


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