Thursday, January 30, 2014

Preen By Thornton Bergazzi And Mulberry.

Sun. 09/15/2013.

Caught between Future Modern and Sporty Modern, Thornton Bergazzi's Preen Collection for Spring 2014 was just a Complicated and Uneven Disappointment. Keeping in the Spring 2014 colour of the season, White, White and did I mention... WHITE... this collection stayed the path of the non-colour with an almost Fanatical devotion. It didn't help the collection and it didn't help to save the collection either. Most outfits came off as Disjointed, Awkward and Overdone. Too much going on in even the simplest of outfits. 

Overly Angular could also be a criticism thrown at the collection as well. Had the Geometric/Floral printed pieces that opened the show been cut in less tricky ways they would have been stunning for the prints themselves were quite Genius and would have been elevated by less complex construction. And that White Dress with the Anorak attached at the Shoulders at Exit No. 4 could have held promise, had the hem not look like it had a run in with a Paper Shredder. A rather simple Shift dress in the aforementioned Print at Exit No. 9 was perhaps the easiest piece in the collection and offered a brief respite! 

As the collection advanced, Colour came out to play. Shocking Pink, Highlighter Yellow, Bubble Gum, Frost Pink, And also a Touch of Baby Blue. The finale went home on a Refreshing break of colour in Black and White and a Positive/Negative version of the floral print shown earlier. It wasn't a saving grace, it wasn't exactly even pretty, but it gave a grounding effect to all that had come earlier. 

This is one of those collections that was going to engender very pointed reactions... Either it was Seen as Ahead of it's time and Experimental and Cool, Or that it was just a missed opportunity to use some beautiful optical/floral prints in some less than stellar clothes. The prints and were the highlight... Beautiful as they were they were masked by Convoluted Ideas! 

Emma Hill's Swan Song for the House of Mulberry didn't wallow in Nostalgia nor did it really tread any new ground. The most that could be said that it was... Uneven. It had high and lows but not a consistent sense of excitement. It started with a textured floral Cloque top coat and shorts that was Tailored but casual. A bit more of the Cloque and then some repetitious Tonal Stripe tops and bottoms that could have been edited back a little.

The Naive floral print that showed up had a Marni feel to it and was not the best vehicle showcase the sporty clothes they were splashed on. It was most effective on Exit No. 18 when scaled back and left to accent the A-Line shift dress. As an aside... why show the same snap front short sleeve blouson THREE Times in Black, White and Persimmon Orange? It proved no point other than to show Hill's Powers of Redundancy!

There were a few dazzlers here and there, Especially Exit No. 26 which featured thick stripe sections of sequins with that Floral pattern done in beads down the sides of the dress, also the final Four Exits were Delightfully Gorgeous in Snowy White on White! 

Again, Hill wasn't pushing any envelopes... The Mulberry clientele will be happy as larks over the offerings here... but if Hill wanted to leave a mark that will put the fear of the Lord into her successor, she fell well short of the mark. 

That's All.


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