Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Reed Krakoff.

Weds. 09/11/2013.

In the scant 3 years that Reed Krakoff decided to throw his hat into the ring of Fashion Design and not just be the Handbag Kingpin at Coach, he has firmly enmeshed himself into the fabric of New York Fashion Week as one of the shows that pretty much is a Can't Miss. Why? Well even if Anna herself isn't there, some emissary doing her bidding is reporting every little detail back to her and usually those details are that the man has serious fashion skills. He already has a Signature Niche he has ensconced himself within and he designs some of the most exciting and forward thinking Modern (With a Capital MODERN) Sportswear this side of Helmut Lang whom one would concede is his Touchstone. 

This Season was perhaps the Best so far, and augers well for things to come. Now that he has the Fresh Air of Freedom from Coach blowing in his face he translated that freedom into some of the most stunningly Complex and Elaborate Luxe Sportswear This side of Couture! There was a Light-Handedness that was hard to miss and a Liquidity in everything that only made the Sharply Tailored pieces Snap and Crackle with Severe Excitement even more! There was a Glorious Resign of anything overtly fussy and extraneous. Including the mainly Neutral Palette. There was a Hint of Absinthe here, A Touch of Lemon there, but colours were relegated to either hazy Flesh tones or watery Mineral colours. Plus the Requisite White and Black.

Krakoff didn't fail to touch on any of the Hot Button trends Emerging this season, from The Mesh story making Seriously Big waves or the predominant White-On-White Trend and even giving the Sportif/Luxe Juxtaposition it's due! There was a Grunge thing Happening that has been happening elsewhere and emerging as a Mini-Trend. The Grunge idea was executed with some Elaborate detailing as in the first Exit. A Slip Dress for the 21st Century. In a hazy fleshy Peach tone with ruched tucking at the sides and a Asymmetric Hi-Lo Hem it was Modern and Romantic, A word not usually associated with Krakoff's Oeuvre!!

The Next Standout was Exit No. 5. A Sleeveless Papyrus Belted Trench Dress that was Living in the realm of PERFECTION All Day And All Night Marianne! The new Skirt suit appeared At Exit No. 11 with a Strict and Structured blazer with a fluid side-dipping Asymmetric Skirt all in tones of Creme Anglaise! Next a Electric bright Lemon Yellow Dress at Exit No. 15 Was just Divine! It's Angled front seam giving way to the peekaboo insets and a nonchalant flip back Collar! 

Exit No. 22 was a Beautifully Ephemeral Evocation of both the Slip Dress/Grunge Idea and the All White Idea morphed into one Skillful Application! It's Wafting Hi-Lo hem gave it the Gravitas to move seamlessly from Day to Evening! The Evening version, one could call it, of Exit No. 5 showed up at Exit No. 25 in a Shiny Satin version! It was cut a bit more relaxed but was nonetheless Powerful! 

In the end. Krakoff produced a Hit of Titanic Scale. The collection was Brief, Fleet and left you wanting more lasting all of a bare 7 minutes... it was truly 7 Minutes In Heaven! 

That's All.


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