Sunday, January 26, 2014

Marc Jacobs.

Thurs. 09/12/2013.

Let's put the baby to bed first. OK? I didn't like this collection. I APPRECIATED It. But as for liking it... No! Marc Jacobs is One Capricious Son of a Bitch, It's the element that keeps him in league with the Great showmen of fashion like Lagerfeld and Galliano who in their Furtive and Creative minds can produce show spectacles of amazement and awe while still delivering on the goods in the clothing department. Jacobs is one of those Rare Creatures. But he is also an Arch Absurdist and Prankster and this time I not only think, I am 100% Sure that streak got him in trouble and carried him away this time. 

Those opening Jackets that everyone has been calling Sailors Jackets looked more, TO ME, Like renditions of the Toreador Jackets so famous in the late 80's Via Christian Lacroix. All that Passementerie Silk Embroidery and Tassels and Extended Shoulders... Looks Bullfighter to me! And if that had just been a riff, An... Arabesque nee... a flight of fancy that wasn't so firmly committed to, it would have been nice, but they weighed the collection down in such a garish way that it felt almost as if Jacobs was daring his status in the fashion community and saying to the system at large... "I Dare Ya! I Double Dare Ya to say this is Overworked and Costumey!!" And no one did. He Dared. And Caught the fashion world Blinking! As Perhaps he was well aware... they fawned over it like it was Mother's Milk and The Emperor this time was not only clothed... she was Magnificently Over Dressed! 

I can see where Jacobs was going.  But there was this Fragrance of Galliano Perfuming the air (John Galliano seems to be another Season Touchstone as is Richard Tyler) and as it did In the house that Oscar Built in the fall, it showed that leave Galliano TO Galliano! Here the tragic mix of Victoriana (he and Anna Sui must have vacationed together again!) and Sporty was not fluid or had the effortless hand to make it seem Spontaneous... it ached with Overthinking and Impart. The Couch Cushion (Or Wallpaper) Floral prints Smothered in Silk Tassels and ropes had a Campy Luxe to them that taken out of context and lightened by say a pair of White Pants or some jeans will be Retail Gold. But shown as they were, there would be too much dissecting of it all to get something that didn't weigh the women wearing it down like an Anchor!

The Ornate Nature of the collection was Admirable, sometimes he caught the wave and it was Downright Marvellous, Take Exit No. 12 in Black on Black with a soft jacket and shorts with jet beading and floral vinework embroidery. An Out and Out Winner! However that ornate nature also marred the collection. Leaving things that should have been left alone, Over Embellished and Gaudy... Exits No. 33-35 were prime examples of this posit. 

Evening was where Jacobs Magpie sensibilities shone the best and some of his evening concoctions were Darkly glamourous, In a Tim Burton sort of way! There was an almost Coven like feeling inserting itself in the final pages of this collection as if the Witches were getting ready to brew up a Dark Storm and it left the Palate with a Treacly, Biting Tingle that was Delicious and Sublimely Perverse!

In The End, It wasn't as if the collection wasn't one of the most original ideas we have ever seen in fashion, For it was actually just that. It just was laboriously weighed down by it's own Hauteur! Of course, Jacobs is not a designer to play it at all safe, and taking chances like this is a good thing and some of his offerings from this endeavour are Truly Masterful and Intoxicating, But like all Intoxications... Too Much of it, Can be Deadly! The End result here... Overdose! 

That's All.


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