It was Short, Angular and Architectural and pretty much Perfect. Narciso Rodriguez gave a Brief, Focused Treatise on Clean, Angular Lines and Dressing the Urban Street Warrior woman! It started out with Tilda Lindstam in a Severe and Sharply Tailored collarless Suit with Clean Lines in White with a thick border of Shiny Black Leather at the hem and a VERY Brief matching leather skirt peeking out from underneath. It was Daring and Sleek and Feminine yet Hard. This Hard-Edged Femininity was on ample display owing much to the fact that most of the early looks hovered WELL above mid-thigh.
Rodriguez kept the sleek vibe alive with angularity and concentration on limited colour. There was even a pretty floral brocade to keep things lively thrown in to the mix judiciously but also not to inject any sense of Giddy Girlishness... if Brocade can been seen as Tough, this was the collection that achieved that! Things begin to go more ardently towards the 21st century mod style that was the playground of Helmut Lang (another one of those Touchstones for the season) with trailing asymmetric panels that didn't fully wrap around the torso or hip giving a eccentric twist to the looks but didn't look in the least like Trickery or Tactics to inject something Overtly Arty into the collection.
A Color Blocked Dress with one of those Asymmetric panels on the Leggy Goddess Maria Borges At Exit No. 17 was Effectively Dramatic and Airy. And then thrown in for a bit of relief from all the High Hem Hijinx were a couple of Equally Effective Long skirts that did not feel one iota out of place in the Gam Fest as they also showed off plenty of lean leg!
It was the Best collection Rodriguez has done in almost a decade... His collections have in recent past bordered on the Silly and the Hopelessly Tricky or were just plain Unattractive and yet garnered him reviews that were in the stratosphere and were not in my opinion at all deserved. This is a Return to the Narciso of Old and is welcome in the utmost. Let's Hope he is set back on the Right Track from here on out!