Julien MacDonald Is a wizard. This collection proves that MacDonald is not only A Master of Sexy, Slinky, Seductive and sometimes downright SALACIOUS Couture... and make no mistake, THIS IS COUTURE Level! One may forget that MacDonald was catapulted into the limelight and given the Keys to the Kingdom by none other than Uncle Karl himself oh so many years ago in 1996 when he was charged with creating super delicate cobwebby knits for Karl Lagerfeld and MOST Importantly Chanel!
After Chanel, MacDonald showed his true Couture Chops when he was given the Mantle of Couturier at Givenchy. He got into a groove late in his tenure there and was hitting his stride in his own way. But that was then, this is now... and since, he has truly carved a niche at his own label. This season the patchworking trend that has been showing up across the pond has found it's way here as well, however here it was a decidedly more Decadent, less Sportif affair in MacDonald's Glitz-Coated Hands. The Air of Atelier Versace Circa Fall 2013 felt keenly present here but was transmuted to look Completely Versace, Yet equally, totally Unlike Versace. There was something Brilliantly Baroque about MacDonald's Application of his crafts, and was well exhibited in his Daring opening Exit of Beaded Net and Lavish Scrollwork embroidery that showed how the Haute Couture left it's indelible Tattoo on Julien's Work!
Exit No. 2 was also a Vision in Pale Moonlight Grey cobweb knit, crochet, net, Sheer Illusion and Beading, It breathed with the essential Vie of Couture! In fact, other than Black, MacDonald kept his Palette Moonglow pale! Exhibited beautifully in Exit No. 3 in a Starlight Blue Patchworking again of net, knit, crochet and Tulle was Mind Boggling in it's technical Difficulty and and was a feat of Couture Craftsmanship.
There was also a lot of Sliver-y, Mirror-like metal embroideries and and one gown looked like a Mirror ball come to life in the Sexiest way possible while also keeping itself quite discreet at Exit No. 22! An EXQUISITE beaded sheer Caftan next at Exit No. 23 had an Elie Saab Frisson running through it but was more daring than anything Saab would ever create!
With a Smashing Finale Pair of gowns, MacDonald produced a collection as Powerful and Resonant as any he has ever done! It was A Stellar Showing, Which it should have been since the Collection derived all it's colours and Twinkle from the heavens! Starlight, Starbright, What A Shining Star We Saw this night!