There was a Lot (A WHOLE LOT) going on Chez Elie Saab in his 2016 Resort presentation... And most of it looked like Roberto Cavalli. Being inspired by the Breezy, Bohemian, Stevie Nicks Witchy Woman of 1970's California would seem to beg that impression, and it did! There was so much openwork Lace and sheer layers and pointed hems and Haight-Ashbury Love Power Flower prints and BASTA! Too Much! The biggest takeaway... It looked Costume-y! Not much of this felt Modern in any resolute kind of way, and had so much of a Throwback to Auntie Sunflower Sky Feather's San Fran Closet that it could have doubled as the wardrobe for a Remake of the Movie "Hair" All that was missing was Treat Williams!
That is always the biggest problem that is faced when a designer takes a long view of the 70's, it can come across as far too literal and then it becomes almost parodical. When Cavalli does it, Yes, you feel the Boho-ness, but Cavalli always injects so much Raunch and the right amount of Sex into the clothes that they transgress all the innocent associations of that period and become something different. Saab had none of that Devil-May-Care Insouciance here, so it just looked like a rehash of the past. In the end, it wasn't as if the collection was a Failure, but it was totally impossible to pick out one single item that I like well enough above the others to comment as a stand-out. Perhaps that's more damning a commentary than any!