Lanvin Resort 2016.
As typically Exciting, Vivacious and Beautiful as Alber Elbaz's collections for Lanvin are, they have become frighteningly redundant and expected. Elbaz hasn't in some time, in any way, really pushed himself past the Exuberant, Artsy, Rich Bohemian look that has defined his last few years at the house. It's been as much as Variations on a Theme for about a good 6 years or more. One might argue that the clothes are stunning enough to validate such repetition... That wouldn't be a statement of untruth, however.. There is a sense of Staleness creeping in, one that is conjuring an overwhelming impression of the Blasé!
Elbaz was up to his usual antics, Arty presentation, Vibrant palette, Statement Accessories and the such... what was different about it this time, it didn't feel fresh or new. The Ruffles, The Asymmetric necklines, The Fringe, Animal prints, Disco Sequins and all had no real spark. Been There. Done That. Done It Better, Alber. Even the standout exceptional White Gown with ruffles at the neck and arms was given too typiquement a Lanvin treatment with a Ginormous Brooch and Pendant. The gown was SUBLIME, but it looked harried with those overscale accoutrements, where something simpler would have made far better an impression. More interesting, a White Swing top with an Elliptical "Balenciaga" hemline poised above a Straight, Tight Black Leather skirt lightly touched with metal studs. That look shone for it's purity of form and freedom of over embellishment.
Elbaz is Gifted. make no doubts of that, and this formula he's working has a mighty throng of devotees, Yet and all though, that exact formulaic approach is also what is hampering the label from being more than a One-Hit Wonder. Before long, The melody grows old. And as such. as of writing this, Elbaz was deposed from the house unceremoniously and replaced by Bouchra Jarrar. I knew this before writing this, but it did not inform my opinion... I had felt this way long before such news... It just seems the Suits in Charge at Lanvin... Felt the Same!