Alessandro Dell'Acqua distilled a little of the spirit of past house designer Marco Zanini into his Rochas 2016 Resort collection, which in large part made it the categorical success it was. Dell'Acqua isn't really a Light-Hearted or FUN designer. He's Stricter, more sensualist and erotic in his work. There's even sometimes a certain Germanic sternness in his work. Zanini is a Bold, Free Spirited designer, given to Zaniness and Gaiety... Two VERY different attitudes to try and enmesh together into something Fashionably Viable.
Yet, Dell'Acqua achieved a fair bit of that Zanini Esprit de Vivre in this collection, And, By Golly Gumdrops... IT WORKED! The voluminous shapes and girlish vibrance to the clothes were the first cues that things were going in a different direction, then with the engaging off-kilter colour palette. Mustard Orange, Shell Pink, Carrot Orange. Even though the collection focused primarily on Black and White and Pale Neutrals, these punctuations of Vivid colour injected a good deal of energy into the looks. For Instance, Shell Pink was the colour washed over a Charming tent dress in heavy Silk decorated with heaps of Broderie Anglaise, which was a recurring motif throughout the looks.
Lightness exuded from every pore of this collection and was exemplified in a gown of fluid Black and White Gingham print Chiffon with a back skirt completely of softly pleated White Chiffon. Magnifique! Dell'Acqua looked as if he finally was relaxing into the heritage of the house and the man who preceded him whom did such an incredible job reviving the label. Dell'Acqua has all the tools to raise his game significantly more, he only need apply them.