Thursday, January 29, 2015

Christopher Kane.

Mon. 09/15/2014.

By the looks of things, this was one of Christopher Kane's Best collections come Spring 2015. It wasn't Exhaustingly Experimental or Hopelessly Tricky. It did indulge in both elements, but tempered with a Sobriety that was Warmly Welcome. The Motif of Rope and Knots was not to be underplayed, There was a Symbolism there, Tying things from his past to things of his future, especially since the collection was Dedicated to and Inspired by his Professor at Central Saint Martins, Louise Wilson, whom had recently passed. Wilson was Central to all the talent coming out of that Bastion of Creative thinking that IS Central Saint Martins... Under her Tutelage, she was responsible for Talents like Alexander McQueen, Kane, and his Contemporary, Jonathan Saunders as well as many others. 

Kane, Perhaps in a more somber mode, translated his solemnity into much more approachable fashion this time out. But let's not get too comfortable... Kane kept things Just interesting enough to Honour his own sensibilities and the training of his Teacher. The ropes and knots that started as accents on the clothes in totally functional ways blossomed Outward, Upwards, Downwards and Around-Wards as they began to snake around the Body in ever more Contorted Configurations. They became, as the show moved on, less about function and more about Symbolic embellishment. Knots and Rope can have some very Sexual connotations, and Kane exploited that with his Nervy use of Sheerness as a play against the Motif. 

A sheer slip dress on Katlin Aas was Sinuously traced with Multicolour "Ropes" but still preserved the Unnerving sheerness that made it slightly Dangerous and Improper. Always good things! This was early in the show and was to be set aside as Kane proved his Tailoring skills were things to be reckoned with also... a Maroon Skirt suit Duchesse Satin was bound at the waist by Two rope cords tied around the Torso and looked Drop Dead DIVINE, As did the Black Pantsuit that would come later in the same style.

As the show rounded the Bend towards Home Plate, Those Ropes Came back, In Colours, as well as more densely done in Black which looked like a Delightfully Contrived and Elaborate De Facto Lace. It was Breathtaking to say the least. Here, with this Collection, One feels Kane has moved onto something more than just trying to prove how Clever it is to be Clever! His experiments usually weigh down his collections with so much over indulgent Twaddle, that the clear Genius of his work is smothered. Hopefully he is on the path of Enlightenment and of Lightening his Oeuvre. When one can experience results like this from such Unfettering... The Craving for More Grows quite Strong! 

That's All.


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